Soft shell crabs are the new ramps. Or the original ramps, the real signifier in the restaurant industry that winter is officially over and all the fun spring eating can begin.

An unusually warm winter accelerated a molting process that usually doesn't take place until May, and Florida fishermen are taking note. Though still early, many New York restaurants have received their first shipments and are serving soft shells at this very moment, typically as specials. Here now is a look at where to find the first of the season. As for ramps, well they're everywhere.

— Hannah Leighton