The newly reopened French restaurant features elegant bistro fare with Japanese and American flourishes, including the fried chicken with habanero sauce shown, at prices a bit cheaper than you might expect in a luxury restaurant. Now seating is provided along the marble terrace on the shady north side of the Richard Meyer building the restaurant occupies.

Occupying a corner space with views downhill toward the Hudson River, Malatesta is an Italian restaurant featuring the food of Emilia-Romagna. Sure there’s a spectacular rendition of Bolognese sauce, but more obscure specialties are also offered, including the flatbread called piadina, made on the premises and served warm, stuffed with agreeable things like prosciutto, arugula, and parmesan.

Probably the only clam-centric restaurant in Manhattan (Brooklyn and Queens have a couple), the Clam is a great place to score raw clams, clam dip, spaghetti with clams, and a seafood chowder that, naturally, contains clams. Apart from that, there are salads, vegetable sides, and other seafood galore, plush trashy stuff like Old Bay french fries.

This appealing brunch spot makes a mean shakshuka, a North African dish of poached eggs in a slurry of chile-laced red sauce. The mostly Middle Eastern and Moroccan menu keeps pace, much of it representing Sephardic Jewish cooking. There are lots of small dishes on the menu, many vegetarian, and the wine, beer, and cocktails are appealingly priced.

When Anton’s opened last autumn on the West Village’s hopping Hudson Street, it emulated New York City restaurants of a century earlier, featuring recipes from The Epicurean, an historic cookbook. The outdoor menu is now more summery than before, and apart from the restaurant’s celebrated pasta section (titled “Macaroni”), your attention might be turned to the apps and salads, with the former including a whitefish salad served with rye crisps, and the latter a colorful plate of crudite with an Italian tonnato dip, both cool and refreshing.

This very French restaurant has recently reopened with lots of seating out front right on Bleecker Street, but seek out the back garden for one of the chillest outdoor spaces in the city. The wine list specializes in natural wines, including more by the glass choices than usual. The food seems perfectly matched to the wine, including a stuffed eggplant roulade app that looks like tekkamaki, and a jerk cauliflower main that includes a wealth of other farmers market vegetables.

Originally known simply as John’s Pizzeria, this coal oven pizza parlor was one of a small group of venerable places to introduce pizza as we know it to the United States a century ago. The pies are thin-crusted, slightly charred, made with excellent mozzarella, and a modest strew of good ingredients (my favorites: Italian sausage and black olives), many still originating in what was once an Italian and Portuguese neighborhood, of which few vestiges remain. 

Yes, you can get the faddish bread boatload of melted cheese called khachapuri at OTG, but Georgian cuisine is so much more: its compressed vegetable appetizers laced with walnuts and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds, for example, or its charcoal lamb kebabs wrapped with flatbreads for convenience of eating with one’s fingers, or its mellow chicken stews or oniony lamb dumplings. The wine list is interesting enough on its own to induce a visit.

As distinct from many of the other sushi restaurants in Greenwich Village, this tiny sushi joint won’t sell you a $200 omakase, because its deluxe assortment (10 pieces and one roll) comes in at less than $30. The fish is pristine in its freshness, and, supply permitting, less common forms of seafood are often found in its assortments. No outdoor seating to speak of. Order online.

Nothing beats a great french fry, especially one that has been double cooked at differing temperatures and furnished with a dizzying choice of sauces. Some of the best of these sauces are free, some entail a nominal charge at Pommes Frites, which was transplanted a few years ago from a location on Second Avenue in the East Village after an explosion and fire in its row of buildings. Now the décor is more Tudor than ever, and never fear that the fries won’t make a full meal.

This old-fashioned focacceria might have been transplanted from Palermo. The menu features the chickpea fritters called panelle along with fried and squished small potatoes made into a panino, as well as bombolini filled with pastry cream, pastas bearing eggplant and ricotta, and thick, square slices of focaccia, the best of which features thin-sliced potatoes and rosemary. The shop is small, but still has an outdoor seating area on 8th Street.

This restaurant on the northern frontier of Greenwich Village represents the engaging food of northern China, specifically the provinces in the northeast called Dongbei. That means glass mung bean noodles sometimes served cold and flavored with wasabi, pork stews with shredded cabbage that’s something like sauerkraut, cumin-scented lamb, and some of the best and most diversely filled dumplings in town.

Remember the furor over the mixian rice noodles of Yunnan two years ago? Here is one of its most enthusiastic propagators, right in the middle of the Village. The name is a translation of “Yunnan,” and the famous crossing the bridge noodles is its central offering. But dig deeper into the menu for all sorts of other noodles, both dry and in soups, including my favorite, tofu pudding rice noodle.