Winter is upon us, and real hardwood barbecue beckons. While we often associate it with summertime picnics, the smoky luxuriance of a pork rib or pink-ringed slice of fatty brisket is even more welcome on a frigid winter’s day. New York City has come a long way from the days when sauce-slathered pork ribs baked in the oven were considered barbecue. The city’s pitmasters have turned to other parts of the country for inspiration — to Texas, the Carolinas, Memphis, Kansas City, and other capitals of smoked meat.
Pitmasters began upping their game in the late ’90s and have only gotten better with time. This revised guide has many points in heretofore unexpected places. And it brings good news: Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue has reopened after a devastating fire, and Bark has moved into the mainstream, presenting great ’cue with Dominican flair. And while the old Pig Beach is closing, the new version in Astoria is even better.
Health experts consider dining out to be a high-risk activity for the unvaccinated; it may pose a risk for the vaccinated, especially in areas with substantial COVID transmission.
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