Among wine collectors and natural wine fans, Racines is well-known for its wine by the glass specials, often highlighting a grower with some hard-to-find-selections. Don’t miss the chance to speak with Racines co-owner David Lillie, long key supporter of natural wine in the States, during one of his semi-regular appearances behind the bar. Racines is also frequented by deep-pocketed Tribeca types, and in addition to the modestly marked up verticals from the Loire and the Jura, there are some heavy hitter wines sold there as well. Most of the choices are French, but there are plenty of Italian and American classics that round out the list. Plus, wine world legend Pascaline Lepeltier, formerly of Rouge Tomate, recently signed on as a partner, further upping Racines' status as a heavy hitter.

The Ten Bells has always been successful at being three places at once: a neighborhood choice lit by candlelight, a go-to late night spot, and a natural wine shrine for those in the know. It was an early proponent of the style, and thus many sommeliers end up here to drink it.

There are hipster natural wine bars, and then there are hip wine bars that serve natural wine, and this swanky place is definitely the latter. Guests could come in here with friends or a date, sit down on an expensive, modish-looking chair, hoist their drink on a polished wood table, and never even realize that there are natural wines on the list. But those in the know know that Caleb Ganzer, who took up the wine program here after stints with Daniel Boulud’s group and with Eleven Madison Park, has built a standout list with wines from around the globe, with a particular focus on Burgundy and Champagne.

The Lower East Side features several natural wine hotspots, and this is the newest of them, recently brought to the attention of the faithful by Alice Feiring, New York’s doyenne of natural wine. The list at Hemlock is short and to the point: It carries natural wine, and a good percentage of that is orange. France and American options vie for most of the attention, but Austria, Italy, and Spain are also featured, and virtually everything is under $100 a bottle. This is a small program, with youthful vintages meant for approachable drinking.

Estela offers a well-chosen mix of the stylish and edgy wines, and many of those are natural. The extensive selection of European bottles highlights producers doing some of the best work in their respective appellations, and there is a notable fluency with some of the more interesting Spanish up-and-comers. Overall this is an accomplished list of exciting choices. Pricing is varied enough to accommodate different kinds of evenings out: the affordable or the extravagant.

Anfora is a name that alludes to a certain Italian orange wine, which can be found easily here, but this list has also featured biodynamic and natural wine from most everywhere since the beginning. The lineup is perhaps even more indebted to France than it was, with a vertical of Joly, listings from the likes of Henri Milan, and a whole clutch of natural Beaujolais. Current natural wine obsession Gut Oggau is also in the mix. In a place that is a blend of West Village watering hole and darkly chic lounge, there is a long list of wines available by the glass.

The bar at Dirty Bird is an “overalls meets vinyl” aesthetic drawing young, natural wine aficionados — think of it as a more youthful Wildair when it comes to the crowd. It is also a good place to pregame and carbo-load for smashed potatoes and gravy or mac-n-cheese. But the real draw is Eben Lillie, who selects the wines for the place, and who has many friends within the natural wine community. Case in point: the “our friends” portion of the website reads like a collection of future natural wine breakout stars.

Now-departed beverage director Pascaline Lepeltier — now at Racines — brought worldwide attention to Rouge Tomate for its wine program, and though she is gone, many of her wine selections remain. The well-honed, adventurous list leans heavily on the Chenin Blanc grape and the Loire Valley in general, but there is plenty to be found from across wine regions.

As with other Andrew Tarlow venues, natural wine is largely what is on offer for wine at Achilles Heel. And the pricing model emphasizes the affordable: Only a couple of well-known names, such as Clos Rougeard and Valette, stray past $100 for a normal sized bottle here. Everything else is under that dollar mark. It’s easy to find something to drink here.

St. Anselm has what might be called a drinker’s list. There are plenty of natural wines on the list, and plenty of just plain good wines as well. The selections range from across the globe (Mendoza, Canada, to New York State, in addition to France, Italy, and other European stalwarts). The St. Anselm list is extensive, offering plenty of chances to stretch a dollar: There are back vintages offered for current release pricing and there are magnums that don’t cost a lot. It’s an inviting and satisfying list even for those who don’t know about wine.

Have & Meyer offers a charming atmosphere, with an Italian rustico feel and several antique adornments. The wine list is wholly Italian, which is far from the norm among New York’s natural wine venues. And there is an immense amount of orange wine offered, both by the glass pour and by the bottle. Laudably, the markups are gentle on what can be an expensive orange wine category, with pours for $20 a glass or less, and over thirty options ringing in at under $100 a bottle.

The Four Horsemen is co-owned by an experimental musician and DJ, and for that reason guests might expect it to be divey, loud, and sceney. Instead, it can be — if there at the right moment (think off-peak) — almost sedate. The list is longer than expected, given the size of the place, and ventures out past France into some other countries for natural wines. Prices are often south of $100 a bottle, but plenty of times they are above that mark. In a way The Four Horsemen represents a kind of gamble that the kids of Williamsburg have grown up some without losing their edge.

Restaurants that cultivate an outsider attitude are often drawn to the aesthetics of natural wine, and Roberta’s does not disappoint on this front. There are plenty of well-established natural wine names within the selections offered. The markups on sparkling wine and orange wine are gentle, and those are two categories where prices can escalate at many other restaurants. While there are numerous pizza venues that have long wine lists in New York, this is the place to get natural with a pie.

Quietly, thoughtfully, and with no desire for attention, Bill Fitch has been crafting a subtly accented, astutely chosen wine list for Vinegar Hill House for many years now. Fitch, who divides his time between homes in Paris, Barcelona, and New York, stays deeply informed about wines, and he writes a list that keeps in mind his own personal taste rather than running with the pack. This is that rare wine list that speaks perfectly in its own cadence. For a wine that is beautiful rather than proper, go to Vinegar Hill House. There will be others like it, offered for a reasonable price.

The June wine program has grown significantly: The wide spacing that was once featured on the wine list is gone now that many new options have made the list. Wine guy Nick Gorevic deserves credit for growing the options while still maintaining the list's edge. This is not the spot for the same old, same old natural wines, or classics of any stripe. Instead, this is where multiple bottlings from up-and-coming producers like Martha Stoumen and Christian Tschida can be found. And where support is given to the hard sells: Gorevic doesn’t hesitate to list eight sparkling reds, for instance. It would be doing June an injustice to not mention how much fun can be had for under $100. Most of the wine list is below that bottle price.

The wine list at Freek’s Mill likes to focus the diner’s attention to Georgian Qvevri wine, Loire Chenin Blanc, and Beaujolais, with pages devoted to each. And each of these categories is natural wine heavy. If a fan of any of these very defined zones, Freek’s Mill is there to geek out with you.