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Mackerel, banchan, and lettuces.
Mackerel, banchan, and lettuces at Sambak Sambazip.

19 Standout Korean Restaurants in Murray Hill, Queens

One of the city’s original Koreatowns offers a wealth of options

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Mackerel, banchan, and lettuces at Sambak Sambazip.

While Manhattan’s Korean destination restaurants flaunt the shiny tip of the iceberg that is Korean cuisine, Queens’ Korean establishments make up a foundation for the local Korean American residential community. Since the 1970s, New York’s Korean immigrants have been putting down roots in Queens: Almost half of the population live in Flushing and Bayside, according to U.S. census data.

Murray Hill is a hotspot in particular, covering the area surrounding the Broadway and Murray Hill stops on the Long Island Rail Road and the commercial corridor of Northern Boulevard that runs in between them. The boundaries have helped define what’s now colloquially called “먹자골목,” “Let’s Eat Alley” or “Food Alley.” It houses cozy joints where groups of halmunis (grandmas) go out for breakfast dates of kongnamul guk (bean sprout soup); golfers pack in for barbecue after hitting the greens; karaoke and bar crowds satiate their midnight munchies; and parents take a break from cooking with more elaborate restaurant-style takes on their family recipes.

“It’s the closest thing to how Korean people actually eat at home,” says Ahyoung Kim, director of economic empowerment at the Asian American Federation. It’s where the team behind Korean-Southern tapas spot, C as in Charlie, find “jeong,” that kind of familial hospitality where the “eemos” (aunties) with the grilling skills of a Michelin-starred restaurant are happy you cleared the dishes, says co-owner David JoonWoo Yun.

The meals in Murray Hill still hew to traditional eating customs. The majesty of banchan — an endless spread of colorful veggie-forward side dishes eaten throughout the meal — still dazzles the table. And the stiff competition here, as well as the diverse backgrounds of the Korean immigrants themselves, have produced restaurants that specialize in a regional cuisine or a specific dish, some dishes surfacing only during a customary season.

From barbecues that go way beyond bulgogi to spicy crab soups, crispy oyster pancakes, hours-simmered beef bone soups, and banchan, here are 19 Murray Hill restaurants that showcase the diversity of Korean cuisines.

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유주네 설렁탕 Yuju Seollangtang

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Yuju’s specializes in the rich, milky beef bone soup known as seollangtang, and it’s served here the traditional way: beef bones boiled for hours to extract the creamy white collagen, strips of brisket and thin white noodles added later, and DIY helpings of salt and chopped scallions so you can season the soup to your liking. The bossam (tender boiled pork belly wraps), jokbal (pork trotters), and oyster dolsot bibimbap are also hits here. Enjoy them in homey digs surrounded by hand-written menu specials taped to the walls.

Dumplings and seollangtang at Yuju’s.
A spread at Yuju’s.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Bonjuk New York

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Bonjuk is the temple to jook, with 25 versions of rice porridge each as soul-satisfying as the next. For something spicy and deluxe, order the kimchi and octopus jook; for traditional, get the abalone; for super homey (what parents make for their kids on sick days), get the ground beef and vegetables. In every jook, the rice and hefty portions of the non-rice components have fused together to become one large steaming bowl of Korean comfort food.

Byung Chun Soondae

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Byung Chun specializes in daily house-made soondae (blood sausage stuffed with noodles), doling it out in various preparations: grilled hot at the table for a crackly snap of the casing; stir-fried with gochujang, veggies and noodles; or in an unctuous soup (the kind that solidifies in the fridge) served with gochugaru paste and scallions for seasoning the broth, and a salt-and-pepper mix for dipping in the cut discs of sausage. Soondae is a popular late-night street food in South Korea so it makes sense that Byung Chun Soondae is open 24-seven. Also try the bossam, stir-fried web-foot octopus, and bean sprout soup.

The inside of a casual cavernous bright restaurant.
The interior of Byung Chun Soondae.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Daori BBQ

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This is the promised land for duck lovers; the restaurant name translates to “everything duck.” The grilled slices of duck are thicker with a heftier crest of fat, and they’re served spicy and non-spicy with the latter highlighting duck’s natural meaty flavor. The inclined grill allows the grease to drip off. The oritang (duck soup) is a rich spiced broth dotted with the tiny earthy and crunchy beads of perilla seeds. The assorted banchan is top-notch. And for a dose of history, take a look around the space for black and white photos of post-war South Korea.

Grilled and barbecue duck.
Barbecue and grilled duck from Daori.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Jeun Ju Korean Restaurant (전주 식당)

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Local regulars hit up this lunch spot for a splendid menu of soul foods intrinsic to the Korean palate. The bibim guksu, cold spicy noodles, are done the way they’re supposed to: light, slightly sweet, spicy, tangy and umami with ingredients like gochugaru, vinegar, and sesame oil and the fresh crunch of lettuce and bean sprouts in a big metal bowl. But for something heartier, get the gamja tang (pork bone and potato stew) heavy with perilla seed flavor or the oyster jeon, golden-fried handmade mounds of egg batter and oyster. The six-plus banchan dishes offer even more flavors and textures to the ordered dishes — as Korean food traditionally does.

A spread from Jeun Ju.
A spread from Jeun Ju.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Kum Sung BBQ

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Customers flock to Kum Sung for several reasons — the tender strips of duck grilled with garlic cloves, the mul nengmyeon (noodle soup) with chewy noodles in a tangy, icy beef and radish broth, the soy sauce-marinated crabs, the plethora of perfectly flavored banchan — but the halahbuhji (grandpa’s) kimchi bulgogi is its brothy hallmark that’s hard to find elsewhere in New York. It cooks in a pot on the table: The tanginess of aged kimchi combines with the savory beef rib-eye bulgogi and produces succulent bites in a rich, spicy broth.

Grilled Duck from Kum Sung.
Grilled Duck from Kum Sung.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Goo Gong Tan

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With its expertise in grilled shellfish, Goo Gong Tan expands the concept of Korean barbecue. Whole clams are placed on the grill slats, where they slowly open up. The liqueur starts frothing at which point the servers pick up each clam with gloved hands and shuck them open with tongs like Edward Scissorhands before placing them on the cooler, outer edges of the grill. There’s so much more to the grilled seafood menu: clams, scallops and mussels topped with a gochujang seasoning and shrimp, too. Pair those with fried dumpling squares with extra crispy edges and a crackly wrapper. It’s a dark, casual hangout kind of spot, so bring friends to share your soju.

Grilled clams at Goo Gong Tan.
Grilled clams at Goo Gong Tan.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Coffee Factory

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Bingsu (shaved ice) is a favorite Korean dessert of the summer. At Coffee Factory, the ice is soft and fluffy, like a million mango-flavored snowflakes gently landing on your tongue. Enjoy that texture in the matcha, strawberry, mango and mitsugaru (sweet mixed grain powder) versions of bingsu, each with its own toppings like mini tteok (rice cakes) and ice cream.

A dessert comprised of shaved ice.
Bingsu from Coffee Factory.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Hahm Ji Bach

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Long a favorite among Korean locals, Hahm Ji Bach offers a well-executed generalist menu that fulfills all sorts of cravings from thick slabs of pork belly grilled at the table to spicy stir-fries, bibimbap, and steaming pots of soups and soups for individual or sharing. Expect a wait at peak dinner times; even the street structure gets packed.

A collection of banchan and main dishes.
A spread from Hahm Ji Bach.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Yuk Jun Gui

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One of the first restaurants in the area is Yuk Jun Gui, and although it offers all the barbecue classics, it specializes in a rarity outside of Korea: grilled eel. Here, it’s cooked over a wood fire by an eemo (auntie) who’s deft with her grilling, knowing exactly when to flip each filleted chunk to the other side. The outcome is perfection: eel that’s meaty, slightly springy, and quite smoky with a char all around the exterior. As with the more mainstream beef barbecue, create lettuce wraps with it. But also leave room for daechang (intestine). The eemo also grills this superbly, creating chewy and super fatty, melt-in-your-mouth pieces with a golden crust.

Grilled eel on a grill.
Grilled eel at Yuk Jun Gui.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Sambak Sambabzip

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As its name suggests, the crowning glory here is the ssam: a rainbow garden of wrap-able veggie leaves like red radicchio, purple kale, and yellow endive on top of the typical red leaf and romaine lettuce. For real Korean homey-ness, there’s even steamed cabbage and seaweed for wrapping and a stewed soybean paste for a topping sauce. Proteins also delight with a choice of spicy pork, grilled mackerel, pork belly, and bossam (sliced pork shoulder). The jeongol, shareable hot pot, is another bestseller here. And all of it comes with a lovely spread of banchan.

Grilled mackerel lettuce wraps.
Grilled mackerel lettuce wraps from Sambak Sambazip.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Somunnan Kimbap & Sushi

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If you are starving and need a snack (while you’re waiting for a table elsewhere, perhaps), head to Sommunan Kimbap where you’re in and out in less than two minutes with a warm just-made kimbap in your hands. About 20 kimbap versions include perilla leaf tuna and grilled squid in addition to your common bulgogi. Each roll is heavy with filling, not filler. The amount of rice is spare compared to the julienned burdock, yellow pickled radish, and whichever main filling you choose. In Korean fashion, hot broth is served for umami lubrication between bites.

Mail Garden

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It looks like an abandoned office building, but Maeil Garden on the ground floor is the go-to spot for charcoal-fired Yangnyum dweji galbi, where even the rib bones are saved for grilling with bonus flecks of charred meat. In Korean fashion, get it with a bowl of nengmyun either as a pairing or a follow-up to the barbecue. Even the bibim naengmyun here has crushed ice that makes for a lusciously lubricated bowl of noodles. The dipping sauce for the jeon (pancakes) like a shredded potato jeon is extra thick with seasoning like gochugaru and scallions. Across three generations, the restaurant has stayed within the family, and as a testament to its duration in a now-crowded Murray Hill, the dining room is spacious, and has a parking lot and back patio.

Pork barbecue from Mail Garden.
Seasoned pork barbecue from Mail Garden.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Mapo | Korean BBQ Flushing, Korean Restaurant in Flushing | 플러싱 맛집

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A destination spot whose charcoal barbecue renown has surpassed the Murray Hill community, Mapo has sadly been weathering its share of troubles since the pandemic; the death of its owner and a temporary closure have cast a pall over the typically lively space. Now reopened, its standout barbecue remains. Over crackling embers, high-quality cuts of galbi or black pork sizzle and yield tender, juicy bites of meat. Don’t skip on the yukgejang here either: the broth is rich and spicy and the soup altogether is loaded with ample amounts of shredded beef, fernbrake fiddleheads, and scallions.

Myung San

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As much as Myung San is small, its menu is big, featuring heaps of non-mainstream dishes steeped in Korean culture — like spicy fish braises and goat stews. It also goes in on crab dishes: spicy marinated raw crabs; soy sauce-marinated raw; braised with radish leaf; and a spicy soup bobbing with crab quarters and shells lined with roe. The baeksuk (soup with either whole chicken or duck) is a rare specialty that takes over an hour to cook so call ahead to put in this order.

Spicy crab soup in a black bowl surrounded by banchan.
Spicy crab soup from Myung San.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi

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The porky, savory goodness just doesn’t end at Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi, which is aptly named after samgyupsal (pork belly). The grilling starts off with slabs of pork belly at the top of a domed cast-iron pan (sottukong). As it cooks, the fat drips onto generous helpings of kimchi and bean sprouts laid out towards the bottom of the grill. With anything left over, you can order a fried rice with a choice of fixings like eggs, fish roe, and spam. In true Korean fashion, order the mul nengmyun — cold noodle soup in beefy broth served here in an ice bowl — as a refreshing break from the lardaceous barbecue.

Kimchi fried rice on a hot platter.
Kimchi fried rice in pork drippings.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Joong Koog Jip

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​​One of the hardest decisions to make at a Korean-Chinese joint is always: Should I get jjajangmyun or jjamppong? Many (but not all) places curb your indecisiveness with an offering of both in a divided bowl, and that’s also the case at this local destination. The black bean noodles are savory and saucy, emanating with black beans, pork and onions; the jjamppong is a spicy red noodle soup riddled with shellfish like mussels, shrimp, and squid. Together, it just works. Complement that with tangsuyuk, battered and fried strips of pork or beef topped with a sweet and sour syrup.

A bowl divided with Jjajangmyun and jjamppong at Joong Koog Jip.
Jjajangmyun and jjamppong at Joong Koog Jip.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Parksanbal Babs

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Paksanbal only has one item on its menu — beef gukbab (rice in beef and cabbage soup) — and it’s served either regular or spicy. The plain version boasts a richer beef flavor that gets eclipsed by the gochugaru in the spicy version. Owner XY has always kept the menu tight with only one or two dishes coming and going in the decades since she’s opened her restaurant. A lot of things have stayed the same though: the tried-and-true gukbap, the old-fashioned way of piercing a stack of toasted seaweed with a wooden toothpick, the self-serve water and green tea at the front, and the nonstop broadcast of golf.

Beef soup at Parksanbal Babs.
Beef soup at Parksanbal Babs.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Kun Sohn Korean Noodle House

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Kalguksu houses always present a difficult choice: go with the namesake kalguksu, long knife-cut strands of chewy noodles, or sujebi, flat and wavy slivers of dough torn by hand. It’s a win either way, and Kun Sohn serves them in about 10 different ways. It does the classics right: light with steamed clams, creamy and earthy with ground perilla seeds, or rich with fall-off-the-bone chicken. Other standouts include the large round steamed beef mandu — traditional half moons pinched together at the points — and seafood jeon — super crispy and thick with a smattering of various shellfish. Enjoy your fair share of brightly flavored banchan.

유주네 설렁탕 Yuju Seollangtang

Yuju’s specializes in the rich, milky beef bone soup known as seollangtang, and it’s served here the traditional way: beef bones boiled for hours to extract the creamy white collagen, strips of brisket and thin white noodles added later, and DIY helpings of salt and chopped scallions so you can season the soup to your liking. The bossam (tender boiled pork belly wraps), jokbal (pork trotters), and oyster dolsot bibimbap are also hits here. Enjoy them in homey digs surrounded by hand-written menu specials taped to the walls.

Dumplings and seollangtang at Yuju’s.
A spread at Yuju’s.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Bonjuk New York

Bonjuk is the temple to jook, with 25 versions of rice porridge each as soul-satisfying as the next. For something spicy and deluxe, order the kimchi and octopus jook; for traditional, get the abalone; for super homey (what parents make for their kids on sick days), get the ground beef and vegetables. In every jook, the rice and hefty portions of the non-rice components have fused together to become one large steaming bowl of Korean comfort food.

Byung Chun Soondae

Byung Chun specializes in daily house-made soondae (blood sausage stuffed with noodles), doling it out in various preparations: grilled hot at the table for a crackly snap of the casing; stir-fried with gochujang, veggies and noodles; or in an unctuous soup (the kind that solidifies in the fridge) served with gochugaru paste and scallions for seasoning the broth, and a salt-and-pepper mix for dipping in the cut discs of sausage. Soondae is a popular late-night street food in South Korea so it makes sense that Byung Chun Soondae is open 24-seven. Also try the bossam, stir-fried web-foot octopus, and bean sprout soup.

The inside of a casual cavernous bright restaurant.
The interior of Byung Chun Soondae.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Daori BBQ

This is the promised land for duck lovers; the restaurant name translates to “everything duck.” The grilled slices of duck are thicker with a heftier crest of fat, and they’re served spicy and non-spicy with the latter highlighting duck’s natural meaty flavor. The inclined grill allows the grease to drip off. The oritang (duck soup) is a rich spiced broth dotted with the tiny earthy and crunchy beads of perilla seeds. The assorted banchan is top-notch. And for a dose of history, take a look around the space for black and white photos of post-war South Korea.

Grilled and barbecue duck.
Barbecue and grilled duck from Daori.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Jeun Ju Korean Restaurant (전주 식당)

Local regulars hit up this lunch spot for a splendid menu of soul foods intrinsic to the Korean palate. The bibim guksu, cold spicy noodles, are done the way they’re supposed to: light, slightly sweet, spicy, tangy and umami with ingredients like gochugaru, vinegar, and sesame oil and the fresh crunch of lettuce and bean sprouts in a big metal bowl. But for something heartier, get the gamja tang (pork bone and potato stew) heavy with perilla seed flavor or the oyster jeon, golden-fried handmade mounds of egg batter and oyster. The six-plus banchan dishes offer even more flavors and textures to the ordered dishes — as Korean food traditionally does.

A spread from Jeun Ju.
A spread from Jeun Ju.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Kum Sung BBQ

Customers flock to Kum Sung for several reasons — the tender strips of duck grilled with garlic cloves, the mul nengmyeon (noodle soup) with chewy noodles in a tangy, icy beef and radish broth, the soy sauce-marinated crabs, the plethora of perfectly flavored banchan — but the halahbuhji (grandpa’s) kimchi bulgogi is its brothy hallmark that’s hard to find elsewhere in New York. It cooks in a pot on the table: The tanginess of aged kimchi combines with the savory beef rib-eye bulgogi and produces succulent bites in a rich, spicy broth.

Grilled Duck from Kum Sung.
Grilled Duck from Kum Sung.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Goo Gong Tan

With its expertise in grilled shellfish, Goo Gong Tan expands the concept of Korean barbecue. Whole clams are placed on the grill slats, where they slowly open up. The liqueur starts frothing at which point the servers pick up each clam with gloved hands and shuck them open with tongs like Edward Scissorhands before placing them on the cooler, outer edges of the grill. There’s so much more to the grilled seafood menu: clams, scallops and mussels topped with a gochujang seasoning and shrimp, too. Pair those with fried dumpling squares with extra crispy edges and a crackly wrapper. It’s a dark, casual hangout kind of spot, so bring friends to share your soju.

Grilled clams at Goo Gong Tan.
Grilled clams at Goo Gong Tan.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Coffee Factory

Bingsu (shaved ice) is a favorite Korean dessert of the summer. At Coffee Factory, the ice is soft and fluffy, like a million mango-flavored snowflakes gently landing on your tongue. Enjoy that texture in the matcha, strawberry, mango and mitsugaru (sweet mixed grain powder) versions of bingsu, each with its own toppings like mini tteok (rice cakes) and ice cream.

A dessert comprised of shaved ice.
Bingsu from Coffee Factory.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Hahm Ji Bach

Long a favorite among Korean locals, Hahm Ji Bach offers a well-executed generalist menu that fulfills all sorts of cravings from thick slabs of pork belly grilled at the table to spicy stir-fries, bibimbap, and steaming pots of soups and soups for individual or sharing. Expect a wait at peak dinner times; even the street structure gets packed.

A collection of banchan and main dishes.
A spread from Hahm Ji Bach.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Yuk Jun Gui

One of the first restaurants in the area is Yuk Jun Gui, and although it offers all the barbecue classics, it specializes in a rarity outside of Korea: grilled eel. Here, it’s cooked over a wood fire by an eemo (auntie) who’s deft with her grilling, knowing exactly when to flip each filleted chunk to the other side. The outcome is perfection: eel that’s meaty, slightly springy, and quite smoky with a char all around the exterior. As with the more mainstream beef barbecue, create lettuce wraps with it. But also leave room for daechang (intestine). The eemo also grills this superbly, creating chewy and super fatty, melt-in-your-mouth pieces with a golden crust.

Grilled eel on a grill.
Grilled eel at Yuk Jun Gui.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Sambak Sambabzip

As its name suggests, the crowning glory here is the ssam: a rainbow garden of wrap-able veggie leaves like red radicchio, purple kale, and yellow endive on top of the typical red leaf and romaine lettuce. For real Korean homey-ness, there’s even steamed cabbage and seaweed for wrapping and a stewed soybean paste for a topping sauce. Proteins also delight with a choice of spicy pork, grilled mackerel, pork belly, and bossam (sliced pork shoulder). The jeongol, shareable hot pot, is another bestseller here. And all of it comes with a lovely spread of banchan.

Grilled mackerel lettuce wraps.
Grilled mackerel lettuce wraps from Sambak Sambazip.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Somunnan Kimbap & Sushi

If you are starving and need a snack (while you’re waiting for a table elsewhere, perhaps), head to Sommunan Kimbap where you’re in and out in less than two minutes with a warm just-made kimbap in your hands. About 20 kimbap versions include perilla leaf tuna and grilled squid in addition to your common bulgogi. Each roll is heavy with filling, not filler. The amount of rice is spare compared to the julienned burdock, yellow pickled radish, and whichever main filling you choose. In Korean fashion, hot broth is served for umami lubrication between bites.

Mail Garden

It looks like an abandoned office building, but Maeil Garden on the ground floor is the go-to spot for charcoal-fired Yangnyum dweji galbi, where even the rib bones are saved for grilling with bonus flecks of charred meat. In Korean fashion, get it with a bowl of nengmyun either as a pairing or a follow-up to the barbecue. Even the bibim naengmyun here has crushed ice that makes for a lusciously lubricated bowl of noodles. The dipping sauce for the jeon (pancakes) like a shredded potato jeon is extra thick with seasoning like gochugaru and scallions. Across three generations, the restaurant has stayed within the family, and as a testament to its duration in a now-crowded Murray Hill, the dining room is spacious, and has a parking lot and back patio.

Pork barbecue from Mail Garden.
Seasoned pork barbecue from Mail Garden.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Mapo | Korean BBQ Flushing, Korean Restaurant in Flushing | 플러싱 맛집

A destination spot whose charcoal barbecue renown has surpassed the Murray Hill community, Mapo has sadly been weathering its share of troubles since the pandemic; the death of its owner and a temporary closure have cast a pall over the typically lively space. Now reopened, its standout barbecue remains. Over crackling embers, high-quality cuts of galbi or black pork sizzle and yield tender, juicy bites of meat. Don’t skip on the yukgejang here either: the broth is rich and spicy and the soup altogether is loaded with ample amounts of shredded beef, fernbrake fiddleheads, and scallions.

Myung San

As much as Myung San is small, its menu is big, featuring heaps of non-mainstream dishes steeped in Korean culture — like spicy fish braises and goat stews. It also goes in on crab dishes: spicy marinated raw crabs; soy sauce-marinated raw; braised with radish leaf; and a spicy soup bobbing with crab quarters and shells lined with roe. The baeksuk (soup with either whole chicken or duck) is a rare specialty that takes over an hour to cook so call ahead to put in this order.

Spicy crab soup in a black bowl surrounded by banchan.
Spicy crab soup from Myung San.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

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Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi

The porky, savory goodness just doesn’t end at Tong Sam Gyup Goo Yi, which is aptly named after samgyupsal (pork belly). The grilling starts off with slabs of pork belly at the top of a domed cast-iron pan (sottukong). As it cooks, the fat drips onto generous helpings of kimchi and bean sprouts laid out towards the bottom of the grill. With anything left over, you can order a fried rice with a choice of fixings like eggs, fish roe, and spam. In true Korean fashion, order the mul nengmyun — cold noodle soup in beefy broth served here in an ice bowl — as a refreshing break from the lardaceous barbecue.

Kimchi fried rice on a hot platter.
Kimchi fried rice in pork drippings.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Joong Koog Jip

​​One of the hardest decisions to make at a Korean-Chinese joint is always: Should I get jjajangmyun or jjamppong? Many (but not all) places curb your indecisiveness with an offering of both in a divided bowl, and that’s also the case at this local destination. The black bean noodles are savory and saucy, emanating with black beans, pork and onions; the jjamppong is a spicy red noodle soup riddled with shellfish like mussels, shrimp, and squid. Together, it just works. Complement that with tangsuyuk, battered and fried strips of pork or beef topped with a sweet and sour syrup.

A bowl divided with Jjajangmyun and jjamppong at Joong Koog Jip.
Jjajangmyun and jjamppong at Joong Koog Jip.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Parksanbal Babs

Paksanbal only has one item on its menu — beef gukbab (rice in beef and cabbage soup) — and it’s served either regular or spicy. The plain version boasts a richer beef flavor that gets eclipsed by the gochugaru in the spicy version. Owner XY has always kept the menu tight with only one or two dishes coming and going in the decades since she’s opened her restaurant. A lot of things have stayed the same though: the tried-and-true gukbap, the old-fashioned way of piercing a stack of toasted seaweed with a wooden toothpick, the self-serve water and green tea at the front, and the nonstop broadcast of golf.

Beef soup at Parksanbal Babs.
Beef soup at Parksanbal Babs.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Kun Sohn Korean Noodle House

Kalguksu houses always present a difficult choice: go with the namesake kalguksu, long knife-cut strands of chewy noodles, or sujebi, flat and wavy slivers of dough torn by hand. It’s a win either way, and Kun Sohn serves them in about 10 different ways. It does the classics right: light with steamed clams, creamy and earthy with ground perilla seeds, or rich with fall-off-the-bone chicken. Other standouts include the large round steamed beef mandu — traditional half moons pinched together at the points — and seafood jeon — super crispy and thick with a smattering of various shellfish. Enjoy your fair share of brightly flavored banchan.

Related Maps