The Champagne Campaign (every bottle of bubbles is offered at half price from 10 p.m. till close, every night) has made this popular venue into a late night who’s who of wine drinkers, with sommeliers and winos of all stripes looking for a seat at the bar. Want to try several different wines? That’s easy. The patrons assembled here are usually happy to share a taste from whatever bottle they might be drinking down.

The high acid cut of the wines on the list is well tailored to the oysters on the menu, so there is little chance of a bad pairing. The selections also match the room, which is distinctly old time classic, but still decidedly comfortable. Add in the emphasis on the many choices that drink better than they cost, and you have a win-win wine proposition.

The wine list is a mixture of country wines from Italy and the young guns from California, served to a crowd that is as comfortable in plaid as in Prada. You have many options here if you are curious to explore around the outer fringe of the wine world, but also choices to fall back on if you aren’t. Either way, you’ll be in good company.

Like all of the Terroir locations, this is a by-the-glass star. There's a lot to choose from by the glass, and most, if not all of the selections (hey, there is a lot of Bordeaux!) fall under the Gonzo Paul Grieco rubric. Plus the bottle list runs particularly long, so however you’d like to approach it, Park Slope has gained a major wine hang.

The revamp of The Beagle offers you any style of wine you’d like, as long as it is sherry wine. The sherry focus runs deep here, and spills over into the cocktails as well. If you want to sample from some of the best bodegas there are certainly plenty of opportunities to do so here.

Although the wine by the glass selection is attenuated, the full bottle list offers a diverse array of choices, sourced from all over the globe. Mature options abound, and some thought has obviously been given to finding wines with age on them. Certain categories, like German Riesling and Cru Beaujolais, get special treatment in sections all to themselves.

Sake shares space with wine on this menu, but the large size of the list means that there is room for everyone. There is a broad range of options to pair with every kind of fish, whether it is fluke, mackerel, or tuna. The prices might be a little more kind, but you will almost certainly drink well, whatever you choose.

Yes, there are certain head scratchers (why the attempt to have every German Riesling from 2011?) but the breadth and general quality of the selection makes up for those, while an obvious effort has been made to find wines with age on them from most parts of the world. In the era of the small wine list, it is refreshing to find a just opened restaurant that is making the space for a wine program of this size.

Several years ago lists like this one were common, but now it is nothing less than comforting to see a commitment to wines from the classic regions (White Bordeaux!) when it seems like every other new restaurant is rushing headlong towards the hip, or trying to forget about wine altogether. And while it focuses on the classics, the Alison Eighteen list also traffics in the less expensive bottlings, which is a combination that has become all too rare.