“French classics done well” could be the motto behind Le Crocodile, a swanky restaurant from the folks behind Greenpoint’s popular brunch spot Chez Ma Tante. Yes, this is a restaurant on the ground floor of a hotel. Yes, it’s still worth visiting. It’s hard to go wrong on this menu of hits, but standouts include the leeks vinaigrette, an entree-sized portion of escargot, a pâté made from mushroom instead of liver, and a plate of steak frites that’s worth its $45 price tag.

With its location atop the Hoxton Hotel, offering spectacular views of that little town across the East River, Laser Wolf is Williamsburg’s latest destination restaurant, and you’d best make reservations far in advance. Basically, the place is a type of Israeli skewer shop known as a shipudiya. Here’s how it works: You pay a fixed price for a grand tray of appetizers, followed by a large charcoal-grilled beef-, poultry-, or fish- kebab (there are vegetarian options, too), then finish up with a small dessert. The apps are the best part.

If you come from the City of Brotherly Love and miss its renowned cheesesteaks, the best chance to remedy the situation is found at Federoff’s — which looks like a fast-food joint right out of the ’60s or ’70s. But the real focus of the place is a sandwich perhaps more appreciated by Philadelphians than tourists — a roast pork and broccoli rabe hoagie, knocked into orbit by sharp provolone cheese.

Anthony & Son Panini Shoppe is the rare case of a social-media sensation that actually lives up to the hype. Sandwiches come out as they appear online: rolled tight and packed with Italian cold cuts, cheeses, and hot and sweet peppers. The menu is massive, and popular orders include the Godfather (prosciutto, capicola, soppressata, salami, pepperoni, mortadella, and mozzarella) and the FDNY (mozzarella, vodka sauce, and a chicken cutlet that’s way better than it should be).

Santa Fe BK makes margaritas as God intended: muddled by hand with tequila, triple sec, and citrus, available in single or double portions, spicy or non-spicy. The cocktails are a strong vote of confidence for the smothered burritos and enchiladas that follow, comforting dishes that are rarely done justice in New York City. Order them blanketed in red or green sauce (made from Chimayo and Hatch green chiles, respectively) or a mix of both, called “Christmas style.”

Lilia is still one of the toughest tables in Brooklyn a half-decade after opening, but should it be? We’re not saying this restaurant isn’t worth visiting — the cacio e pepe frittelle, sheep milk agnolotti, and other Italian American dishes here have a devoted following for a reason. We’re just saying there are 29 other restaurants on this list that won’t quote you a three-hour wait even if you’re Jennifer Lawrence.

The name of this full-service restaurant from the Meat Hook is fitting: The dark wood and mismatched vintage art displayed really do make it feel like a home dining room of sorts. Much like any tavern worth its salt, the move here is the burger, which these days features Sungold jam, scallion aioli, pickles, and American cheese; it comes with pretty damn good fries, too (a rarity in 2022, as complimentary fries become few and far between). If red meat isn’t what you’re after, try other cozy classics like the chicken Milanese.

Opened in 2015, Llama Inn has settled into a sweet spot: The Peruvian restaurant is casual enough that locals can walk in on weeknights, but still feels right for a birthday or special occasion. Dishes like the chicken thigh with aji verde, fluke tiradito, and salmon ceviche are small but packed with flavor, while the lomo saltado and quinoa with cashew and banana offer something more substantial. If the weather allows, head to the rooftop upstairs, which has its own bar.

After a pandemic-era bagel pop-up led to a permanent sandwich counter, owner Elyssa Heller expanded with this full-service restaurant. Made to look like a cozy general store, Edith’s offers a casual, all-day menu of chicken schnitzel, chopped salad with pickled mackerel, flaky malawach bread, and seasonal frosties, like a coffee with tahini that can be made boozy. Look out for weekend brunch specials such as coconut-macaroon french toast.

Birds of a Feather is still our go-to for top-notch Sichuan food in Williamsburg, even with newer arrivals serving food from the province. A long communal table at the heart of the restaurant is part of the draw. The menu offers modern inventions — pork and okra “mini rolls,” fried eggplant accordions — as well as more traditional dishes. The stylish restaurant comes from the team behind Cafe China, a Midtown restaurant that held a Michelin star from 2012 to 2019.

The Jackson Heights food truck credited with jumpstarting New York’s birria boom has a second location on the corner of Meeker and Metropolitan avenues. The tacos, coated in fat then crisped on the griddle to order, easily rank among the city’s best at $3.50 each. Cups of consomé come free with birria tacos at other spots, but here the disposable cups of soup ($4.50 to $6) come loaded with chunks of stewed beef and make for a substantial snack. Dip your tacos in, and enjoy.

Few restaurants have earned as much acclaim in as little time as Zaab Zaab. The Elmhurst Thai restaurant opened in the spring of 2021, attracting critics from Eater and the New York Times, before announcing a citywide expansion that includes three more locations. So goes the story of how Williamsburg ended up with one of the city’s next great Thai spots. Called Zaab Zaab Talay, this restaurant focused on seafood — whole fish steamed in lime-garlic broth, papaya salad with oysters and crab legs — offers infinite rewards for those with a spice tolerance.

If fighting over lobster french fries to the tune of karaoke sounds like a night well spent, Chino Grande might be for you. This Williamsburg restaurant from a co-owner of Win Son bills itself as a “karaoke saloon” — and even though singing is only permitted after 10 p.m. on weekdays, and 11 p.m. on weekends, the bar is buzzing here most hours of the day. Look out for a short menu of finger foods like swordfish skewers, five-spice pork ribs, and an order of $65 french fries topped with a whole lobster.

Williamsburg is an unassuming enclave of Taiwanese restaurants that include Win Son, also on this list, and Fan Fried Rice Bar, which recently relocated from Bed-Stuy. A-Pou’s Taste, to the east, may be our favorite of the bunch. The small cafe has the feel of a well-worn neighborhood spot, even though it opened at this address in 2017, serving top-notch dumplings — pork and pumpkin are best — in the afternoon and fan tuan and egg sandwiches in the morning.

Opened in 2015 by LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy, Four Horsemen remains one the best restaurants in town. Diners can sip on a glass of fun pet-nat and find Michelin-worthy small plates that lean expensive but are perfect for a celebratory night out. It’s rare for a wine bar to hit a home run with both its drink and food menus, but this Williamsburg favorite strikes the right balance by creating a place where wine lovers, a see-and-be-seen fashion crowd, Francophiles, and restaurant enthusiasts can all sit elbow to elbow.

Fried rice is king at this corner restaurant and bar, the newest addition to Williamsburg’s growing Taiwanese food scene. Fried grains are infused with egg, scallion, and onion, then topped with a number of meats: Taiwanese sausage and a massive slab of breaded pork chop offer something closer to the fried rice shops of Taipei, where owner Paul Chen is from, with a handful of less conventional options like pastrami or chorizo with pineapple.

This corner cafe punches way above its weight class with its menu of modern Jewish dishes and baked goods worth going out of the way for. The chicken schnitzel with challah is a banger, and the bagels remind us of some of Manhattan’s best, even if they don’t always get the recognition they deserve. Grab a seat in the well-decorated front dining room, which invites customers to linger with a menu of cocktails and wines labeled “day drinking.”

You might not expect it from a restaurant named after a Tinder pick-up line, but Noods n’ Chill is turning out some of the neighborhood’s best Thai fare. Duck curries, fried red snapper, and blood boat noodles (a rich soup flavored with pig blood and bobbing with pork balls) can be ordered for dinner at varying heat levels — the spiciest packing lots of heat — while brunch brings pork floss toast and congee with a number of add ins.

Massimo Laveglia’s slice shop remains one of the city’s great pizzerias — a place for paper thin Roman-esque slices, and a place to leisurely sip beer or wine in the spacious outdoor shed. Burrata slices show off a nice contrast between cool, milky dairy and warm tomato sauce, though the truffle pizza is the sleeper hit here. Laveglia creates a bit of wonderful magic by blending good mushrooms, salty mozz, and a touch of truffle paste. The pricey fungi add a sweet perfume, without ever overpowering things.

Andrew Tarlow’s seminal restaurant has been open since 1998, pioneering the current farm-to-table, nose-to-tail, local, sustainable, etc., movements in the borough. Roll your eyes, but Diner is still cranking out New American fare like brick chicken and braised beef with dandelion greens that draw in locals for lunch and dinner. Similar dishes, and better versions of them, can probably be found elsewhere in the borough, but the cool vibes and tight service have made this restaurant a modern classic.

Chef Luis Herrera, an alum of Blanca and Cosme, has come to Williamsburg with Ensenada, an ambitious mariscos spot that blends the sensibilities of Mexico City and Baja California. That means kaleidoscopic aguachiles studded with shrimp, fish, clamato, cilantro, and sometimes lemongrass. Also look out for shrimp and fish tacos, as well as whole butterflied fish slathered in pastor-style spices. Jorsand Diaz, also a Cosme vet, heads up the agave program, with a few dozen mezcals to choose from. Bryce David, who owns nightclub Black Flamingo downstairs, is a co-owner.

Peter Luger is a New York institution, and the steaks are still good, despite the place being stripped of its stars by both Michelin and the New York Times. Order the porterhouse, and at lunch, get the burger.