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A perfect equilateral triangle of a dosa, with three sauces underneath in tiny bowls.
The splendid gunpowder dosa at Semma is NYC’s most enticing dosa.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

22 Impressive West Village Restaurants to Try

Korean ramen, Indian tacos, Colonial boiled tongue, Brazilian feijoada, and a few of the city’s best Italian restaurants are all in this neighborhood

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The splendid gunpowder dosa at Semma is NYC’s most enticing dosa.
| Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

No doubt, the West Village is one of the city's loveliest neighborhoods, composed of stately brownstones dating from the 1800s, modest small storefronts with unique merchandise, a country church with formal flower gardens, and reclaimed port and industrial architecture turned into lofts, galleries, and coffee shops.

The borders of the neighborhood can feel a little murky, but we’ve taken them to be the Hudson River to Seventh Avenue on the west and east, and Houston Street to 14th Street on the south and north. Though the neighborhood’s real estate is among the most exorbitant, the prices at its restaurants range from expensive to surprisingly modest, with an impressive range of offerings that run to Sicilian seafood, Spanish paella, Brazilian feijoada, tacos fashioned from Indian flatbreads, and one of the city’s most celebrated hamburgers.

Here are 22 of Eater senior critic Robert Sietsema's picks for great West Village eats.

Health experts consider dining out to be a high-risk activity for the unvaccinated; it also poses a risk for the vaccinated, especially in areas with substantial COVID transmission.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

1. Banter

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643 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014

This sleeper Australian cafe and coffee shop tucked below the Meatpacking District provides what amounts to a brunch menu available all week long. The avocado toast is sent spinning in a Middle Eastern direction with za’atar, feta, and pumpkin seeds, and it can be accessorized any number of ways with poached eggs and side meats. Mushroom wraps and fried chicken sandwiches are other options, but don’t go looking for a hamburger or ham sandwich at this quirky breakfast bistro.

A toast smeared green with seeds on top, and a poached egg in a small bowl and bacon on the side.
Avocado toast at Banter.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

2. A Salt & Battery

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112 Greenwich Ave
New York, NY 10011
(212) 691-2713
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English fish and chips have rarely been done so well on these shores as at this shop with minimal seating, brought to you by the Tea & Sympathy folks. Dipped in beer batter, the fillets come out crisp (whether cod, haddock, whiting, or sole); the shrimp and scallops aren’t bad, either. Sides include mushy peas, baked beans, curry sauce, bangers, and chips that are every bit as good as they need to be.

A wooden bench in front of a makeshift white facade with the name in block letters.
A bench sits out front of A Salt & Battery.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

3. The Lavaux Wine Bar

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630 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014
(646) 692-3328
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This unusual wine bar offers the products of a single Swiss wine company located in the French-speaking part of the country, so it’s more of a winery showroom than restaurant. The decor is exceptionally pleasant (there’s a ski-resort gondola in one corner with a table inside), and the white wines made from the chasselas grape are particularly notable and unique. Overall, the food seems like an afterthought, though there’s no better place in town for fondue these days, and the charcuterie and cheese boards are also a good bet.

A hand holds a fork with a small potato being dipped in a cheese sauce.
Fondue at Lavaux Wine Bar.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

4. Corner Bistro

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331 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 242-9502
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Corner Bistro isn’t a bistro, but a corner Irish bar dating back to 1961 withe the requisite dark wood-paneling, brass rails, and musty scent of beer smells, with a rear room that constitutes something of a neighborhood hideout. The place became famous in the 90s for its simple burgers and decent fries cooked in a small closet next to the bar, but in the ensuing decades, the quality declined. Based on a recent visit, I’m pleased to announce that the quality has soared to something like its original magnificence, and there’s no better place to grab a beer on a weekday afternoon, when the place is nearly empty.

A beef patty on a bun with two slices of cheese melted over the top, with the top of the bun, lettuce, and tomato slice not yet applied.
The famed cheeseburger at Corner Bistro.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

5. St Tropez

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304 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014
(917) 388-3893
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While most wine bars in the West Village concentrate on Italian vintages, this place is markedly different. The wine list is exclusively French, with some bargains if you look carefully, including good glasses of Bordeaux — white or red — at modest prices. The food is Provençale, running from charcuterie to full-plate meals. The frisee salad is great, with more bacon than expected, while the crevettes a l’aioli — grilled shrimp with tarragon mayo — is creamy excellence on a plate. The place looks out on charming West Fourth Street right before it paradoxically crosses West 12th Street, and outdoor seating is extensive.

A salad of chickory with an egg on top and loads of bacon and greens around the periphery.
Frisee salad at St Tropez.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

6. Semma

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60 Greenwich Ave
New York, NY 10011
(212) 373-8900
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In its exploration of southern Indian cooking, Semma is quite simply mind boggling, via chef Vijay Kumar, who was born in Tamil Nadu. Whether you stray into unfamiliar territory — the goat intestines served on a banana leaf are a possible example — or stick with curries with venison or lobster tail, you will enjoy subtle spice combinations and high-quality ingredients. The triangular gunpowder dosa is the best in town, better than any found in Jersey City or Union Turnpike.

A room with a white bar at the right and row of tables at the last, accented in orange.
Semma’s interior.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

7. Anton's

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570 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 924-0818
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The retrograde elegance of this West Village spot makes it seem like an ancient watering hole, and the menu keeps pace, sometimes with adapted dishes the city hasn’t seen in decades or even centuries. Shellfish, sometimes roasted, are a high point, and salads often contain nuts and cheese, making them a substantial first course. A large section of pastas also compete for your attention (bucatini Baczynsky, featuring East Village Polish charcuterie, is a signature), but the spice-rubbed pork chop served with apple sauce and arugula also beckons.

Slices of pale meat with dark applesauce in the background.
The pork chop at Anton’s arrives sliced.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

8. Morandi

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211 Waverly Pl
New York, NY 10014
(212) 627-7575
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I didn’t very much like Morandi when it opened right off Seventh Avenue South in 2007, but on a recent revisit, the food via the controversial Keith McNally was splendid. The pan-Italian menu features lively salads, fried artichokes, bruschetta, seafood fritto misto, hand-rolled pici with lemon and parmesan, and Sicilian meatballs. As an added plus, the place opens every day at 8 a.m. with Italian-leaning breakfast selections and espresso.

Three toasted with a bright green topping surmounted by ricotta.
Fava bean bruschetta at Morandi.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

9. Perry St

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Perry St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 352-1900
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Located in the high-rise condo in which Jean-Georges Vongerichten lives — and hence an excellent spot for celebrity spotting — this less buzzy project in his empire was founded in 2005, serving an international take on French cuisine with a casual edge. This means a yellowfin tuna burger with yuzu sauce, butter-poached lobster with lemongrass-lime leaf sauce, and caramelized beef tenderloin with a gravy boat of béarnaise. This is creative French food at a bargain. The views of Jersey and the Hudson River from the outdoor terrace are unsurpassed.

Fancy fried chicken in a yellow habanero sauce surrounded by a ring of leaves
Fried chicken with habanero sauce at Perry St.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

10. Mary's Fish Camp

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64 Charles St
New York, NY 10014
(646) 486-2185
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Part of a mini-fad of small neighborhood seafood joints at the turn of the century, Mary’s takes a Florida fish camp as its theme, serving up exemplary chowders, fried fish sandwiches with haystack fries, lobster rolls, and even a fresh-sardine banh mi on a menu that’s constantly changing (menu prices also vary). The corner location is hedged with potted herbs and flowers, and many of the patrons live in the surrounding townhouses (For celebrity seekers: Sarah Jessica Parker and Matthew Broderick live across the street).

A long white rectangular dish with cubed raw fish and capers and herbs on top.
Japanese yellowtail tiradito at Mary’s Fish Camp.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

11. Sevilla

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62 Charles St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 929-3189
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Decades ago, Greenwich Village (of which the West Village is a part) boasted many Spanish restaurants, many dating to the time of the Spanish Revolution. Now, Sevilla is one of the few that remain, a palace for paella where the waiters wear short tuxes, the decor will cast you back to the 1940s, and the chorizo arrives aflame. You can smell the garlic wafting down the street.

An aluminum pot with seafood, yellow rice, and bright red peppers.
Sevilla’s paella feeds two or three.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

12. The Little Taco House

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246 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014
(646) 719-1600

When they say little, they mean little. This closet of a space has only three stools, but the tacos are perfectly turned out, providing one of the neighborhood’s best budget meals. The gentle prices doesn’t mean this taqueria restrict its fillings, which include such arcana as tongue and carnitas, in addition to grilled steak, fried fish, and for vegetarians, cactus. Burritos, quesadillas, nachos, and tortas are also available.

Three double tortilla tacos stuffed with meat and greenery and topped with red salsa
Three tacos at Little Taco House.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

13. Katana Kitten

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531 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 243-3000
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Everyone wants to stand upstairs and swill cocktails, but you’re better off in the comparative comfort of the downstairs at Katana Kitten, where you can enjoy the signature dishes of this atypical izakaya, conceived by bartender Masahiro Urushido. Get a load of the more daring offerings: fried-mortadella crustless sandwiches, deviled eggs with uni, and gravy fries as good as they make ’em in Jersey.

Three deviled eggs with orange sea urchin draped on top.
Deviled eggs with uni at Katana Kitten.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

14. Empellón Taqueria

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230 W 4th St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 367-0999
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For creative Mexican fare, check out Empellon Taqueria from chef Alex Stupak, which sports a cocktail lounge in front and a formal dining room in back. The taco fillings may seem unusual to some, but many are also awesome, including short-rib pastrami with mustard seed salsa, and shaved Brussels sprouts with toasted almonds. Yes, this sort of thing has been done forever in L.A., but only more recently here.

A flat tortilla with chunks of red meat and a salsa that looks like fish eggs.
Pastrami taco with mustard seed salsa at Empellón Taqueria.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

15. El Jalapeño Truck

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72 Grove St
New York, NY 10014
(347) 697-0081

This bright orange-and-green van has become a fixture on the south side of Sheridan Square, where you can eat your purchases next to the stark white “Gay Liberation” sculpture by George Segal in what is now a national park. The tacos are good, for sure, with the usual fillings running from steak carne asada to the more uncommon ox tongue. Even better are the burritos, finished on the flattop till the flour tortilla wrappers warm and brown and bubble.

A burrito browned on the outside cut in half and oozing cheese and meat.
Carne enchilada burrito from El Jalapeño.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

16. Jeju Noodle Bar

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679 Greenwich Street
New York, NY 10014
(646) 666-0947
Visit Website

Douglas Kim’s stylish Korean noodle parlor Jeju Noodle Bar serves up the Korean version of ramen, known as ramyun. These wavy noodles are dense and of high quality. One dark and tall bowl called “so-ramyun” features a beefy broth made from veal bones. Pieces of brisket and raw steak are dropped in the broth, as pickled garlic, fried garlic, and garlic oil ramp up the flavor. The exterior of the restaurant recalls Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks,” but it’s not the original — his real inspiration was a now-demolished diner at Greenwich Avenue and Seventh Avenue South.

A well windowed facade with a couple of figures walking by and a red awning.
The exterior of Jeju plays off its resemblance to Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks”
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

17. Suprema Provisions

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305 Bleecker St
New York, NY 10014
(646) 964-4994
Visit Website

With entrances on both Bleecker Street and Seventh Avenue South, this ungainly space is long, crooked, and narrow, part of which is devoted to Italian groceries. But as the restaurant has increasingly become a hit, more of the space has been devoted to tables. At night, the dining room is dark and noisy, with a lively bar scene. The menu features impressive pastas and salads appropriate to the season, and a hamburger that seems out of place, but is commendable nonetheless. Mixed drinks are available, in addition to a modest wine list.

A storefront at night, with illuminated hams in the window and three shadowy figures passing outside.
Suprema Provisions by night.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

18. Taco Mahal

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73 7th Ave S
New York, NY 10014
(646) 719-1553
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It’s a great place for a quick bite, but in good weather the sidewalk seating area at the corner of Bleecker and Seventh Avenue South proves excellent for people watching. The spare menu of this northern Indian café is flatbread “tacos,” including one made with a small roti and another with a big puffy naan. The less-starchy roti is the way to go, it can hold a substantial serving of palak paneer, lamb curry, crumbed and fried salmon, chickpeas, or chicken kebab. The palak paneer (spinach with cubed fresh cheese) is my favorite.

Two colorful Indian tacos made with thick naan bread.
Palak paneer tacos on naan.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

19. Casa

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72 Bedford St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 366-9410
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Brazilian-Chinese expat Jupira Lee founded Casa (“home” in Portuguese) in 1998, and it quickly became a Village staple, located in perhaps the most picturesque part of the neighborhood. The interior is something like a farmhouse, and the centerpiece of the menu is feijoada, a black bean stew loaded with pork, served with sides that include orange segments, collard greens, polished rice, and farofa (a condiment of toasted yuca meal). Further menu highlights, some with African influences, feature shrimp and other seafood.

A cast iron pot of beans and plate of rice, toasted yuca meal, and shredded kale.
Casa’s Feijoada, the Brazilian national dish.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

20. Osteria Carlina

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455 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014
(646) 559-5137
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This newcomer concentrates on the cuisine of Italy’s far north, centering on Turin. Its tables spill onto the sidewalk in the southwestern corner of the neighborhood. The go-to starter is vitello tonnato, a dish of thin veal slices with a smoothly pureed sauce of tuna decorated with caperberries. Then proceed to a pasta like beet ravioli or a main course such as stuffed cuttlefish. The wine list isn’t cheap, but it has many estimable Italian wines, making this a great place for a celebratory meal.

Beige meat in a beige sauce with stem-on green caperberries.
Veal tonnato at Osteria Carlina.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

21. Commerce Inn

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50 Commerce St
New York, NY 10014

This is currently the quirkiest of the West Village restaurants. Much of the interior is left over from a Portuguese bar of the 1960s, but with overtones of colonial Americana added. It represents the most recent experiment of restaurateurs Rita Sodi (I Sodi) and Jody Williams (Buvette), where they explore Shaker culture in an offhand sort of way. The cocktails are historic, and the food runs to roasted bone marrow, spoon pudding, melted cheese rarebit, beef tongue, poached leeks, and a marvelous roast chicken for two to share.

Two glistening and grilled slabs of meat with a dab of mayo and shredded purple slaw.
Poached tongue at the Commerce Inn.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

22. I Love Panzerotti

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220 Varick St
New York, NY 10014
(646) 596-7113
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Occupying a corner on the far southern border of the West Village, this establishment serves panzerotti almost exclusively — small fried pies (two make a meal) shaped something like a calzone that originated in Apulia, the heel of the Italian boot. They puff up nicely and the cheese inside melts and melds the other fillings together. My favorite features mortadella and mozzarella, but a dozen other permutations are offered, including a sweet one loaded with Nutella.

An oblong pie with a brown crust cracked open to reveal meat and melted cheese.
Panzerotto at I Love Panzerotti.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

1. Banter

643 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014
A toast smeared green with seeds on top, and a poached egg in a small bowl and bacon on the side.
Avocado toast at Banter.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

This sleeper Australian cafe and coffee shop tucked below the Meatpacking District provides what amounts to a brunch menu available all week long. The avocado toast is sent spinning in a Middle Eastern direction with za’atar, feta, and pumpkin seeds, and it can be accessorized any number of ways with poached eggs and side meats. Mushroom wraps and fried chicken sandwiches are other options, but don’t go looking for a hamburger or ham sandwich at this quirky breakfast bistro.

643 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014

2. A Salt & Battery

112 Greenwich Ave, New York, NY 10011
A wooden bench in front of a makeshift white facade with the name in block letters.
A bench sits out front of A Salt & Battery.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

English fish and chips have rarely been done so well on these shores as at this shop with minimal seating, brought to you by the Tea & Sympathy folks. Dipped in beer batter, the fillets come out crisp (whether cod, haddock, whiting, or sole); the shrimp and scallops aren’t bad, either. Sides include mushy peas, baked beans, curry sauce, bangers, and chips that are every bit as good as they need to be.

112 Greenwich Ave
New York, NY 10011

3. The Lavaux Wine Bar

630 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014
A hand holds a fork with a small potato being dipped in a cheese sauce.
Fondue at Lavaux Wine Bar.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

This unusual wine bar offers the products of a single Swiss wine company located in the French-speaking part of the country, so it’s more of a winery showroom than restaurant. The decor is exceptionally pleasant (there’s a ski-resort gondola in one corner with a table inside), and the white wines made from the chasselas grape are particularly notable and unique. Overall, the food seems like an afterthought, though there’s no better place in town for fondue these days, and the charcuterie and cheese boards are also a good bet.

630 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014

4. Corner Bistro

331 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014
A beef patty on a bun with two slices of cheese melted over the top, with the top of the bun, lettuce, and tomato slice not yet applied.
The famed cheeseburger at Corner Bistro.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Corner Bistro isn’t a bistro, but a corner Irish bar dating back to 1961 withe the requisite dark wood-paneling, brass rails, and musty scent of beer smells, with a rear room that constitutes something of a neighborhood hideout. The place became famous in the 90s for its simple burgers and decent fries cooked in a small closet next to the bar, but in the ensuing decades, the quality declined. Based on a recent visit, I’m pleased to announce that the quality has soared to something like its original magnificence, and there’s no better place to grab a beer on a weekday afternoon, when the place is nearly empty.

331 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014

5. St Tropez

304 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014
A salad of chickory with an egg on top and loads of bacon and greens around the periphery.
Frisee salad at St Tropez.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

While most wine bars in the West Village concentrate on Italian vintages, this place is markedly different. The wine list is exclusively French, with some bargains if you look carefully, including good glasses of Bordeaux — white or red — at modest prices. The food is Provençale, running from charcuterie to full-plate meals. The frisee salad is great, with more bacon than expected, while the crevettes a l’aioli — grilled shrimp with tarragon mayo — is creamy excellence on a plate. The place looks out on charming West Fourth Street right before it paradoxically crosses West 12th Street, and outdoor seating is extensive.

304 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014

6. Semma

60 Greenwich Ave, New York, NY 10011
A room with a white bar at the right and row of tables at the last, accented in orange.
Semma’s interior.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

In its exploration of southern Indian cooking, Semma is quite simply mind boggling, via chef Vijay Kumar, who was born in Tamil Nadu. Whether you stray into unfamiliar territory — the goat intestines served on a banana leaf are a possible example — or stick with curries with venison or lobster tail, you will enjoy subtle spice combinations and high-quality ingredients. The triangular gunpowder dosa is the best in town, better than any found in Jersey City or Union Turnpike.

60 Greenwich Ave
New York, NY 10011

7. Anton's

570 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014
Slices of pale meat with dark applesauce in the background.
The pork chop at Anton’s arrives sliced.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

The retrograde elegance of this West Village spot makes it seem like an ancient watering hole, and the menu keeps pace, sometimes with adapted dishes the city hasn’t seen in decades or even centuries. Shellfish, sometimes roasted, are a high point, and salads often contain nuts and cheese, making them a substantial first course. A large section of pastas also compete for your attention (bucatini Baczynsky, featuring East Village Polish charcuterie, is a signature), but the spice-rubbed pork chop served with apple sauce and arugula also beckons.

570 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014

8. Morandi

211 Waverly Pl, New York, NY 10014
Three toasted with a bright green topping surmounted by ricotta.
Fava bean bruschetta at Morandi.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

I didn’t very much like Morandi when it opened right off Seventh Avenue South in 2007, but on a recent revisit, the food via the controversial Keith McNally was splendid. The pan-Italian menu features lively salads, fried artichokes, bruschetta, seafood fritto misto, hand-rolled pici with lemon and parmesan, and Sicilian meatballs. As an added plus, the place opens every day at 8 a.m. with Italian-leaning breakfast selections and espresso.

211 Waverly Pl
New York, NY 10014

9. Perry St

Perry St, New York, NY 10014
Fancy fried chicken in a yellow habanero sauce surrounded by a ring of leaves
Fried chicken with habanero sauce at Perry St.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Located in the high-rise condo in which Jean-Georges Vongerichten lives — and hence an excellent spot for celebrity spotting — this less buzzy project in his empire was founded in 2005, serving an international take on French cuisine with a casual edge. This means a yellowfin tuna burger with yuzu sauce, butter-poached lobster with lemongrass-lime leaf sauce, and caramelized beef tenderloin with a gravy boat of béarnaise. This is creative French food at a bargain. The views of Jersey and the Hudson River from the outdoor terrace are unsurpassed.

Perry St
New York, NY 10014

10. Mary's Fish Camp

64 Charles St, New York, NY 10014
A long white rectangular dish with cubed raw fish and capers and herbs on top.
Japanese yellowtail tiradito at Mary’s Fish Camp.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Part of a mini-fad of small neighborhood seafood joints at the turn of the century, Mary’s takes a Florida fish camp as its theme, serving up exemplary chowders, fried fish sandwiches with haystack fries, lobster rolls, and even a fresh-sardine banh mi on a menu that’s constantly changing (menu prices also vary). The corner location is hedged with potted herbs and flowers, and many of the patrons live in the surrounding townhouses (For celebrity seekers: Sarah Jessica Parker and Matthew Broderick live across the street).

64 Charles St
New York, NY 10014

11. Sevilla

62 Charles St, New York, NY 10014
An aluminum pot with seafood, yellow rice, and bright red peppers.
Sevilla’s paella feeds two or three.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Decades ago, Greenwich Village (of which the West Village is a part) boasted many Spanish restaurants, many dating to the time of the Spanish Revolution. Now, Sevilla is one of the few that remain, a palace for paella where the waiters wear short tuxes, the decor will cast you back to the 1940s, and the chorizo arrives aflame. You can smell the garlic wafting down the street.

62 Charles St
New York, NY 10014

12. The Little Taco House

246 West 4th Street, New York, NY 10014
Three double tortilla tacos stuffed with meat and greenery and topped with red salsa
Three tacos at Little Taco House.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

When they say little, they mean little. This closet of a space has only three stools, but the tacos are perfectly turned out, providing one of the neighborhood’s best budget meals. The gentle prices doesn’t mean this taqueria restrict its fillings, which include such arcana as tongue and carnitas, in addition to grilled steak, fried fish, and for vegetarians, cactus. Burritos, quesadillas, nachos, and tortas are also available.

246 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014

13. Katana Kitten

531 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014
Three deviled eggs with orange sea urchin draped on top.
Deviled eggs with uni at Katana Kitten.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Everyone wants to stand upstairs and swill cocktails, but you’re better off in the comparative comfort of the downstairs at Katana Kitten, where you can enjoy the signature dishes of this atypical izakaya, conceived by bartender Masahiro Urushido. Get a load of the more daring offerings: fried-mortadella crustless sandwiches, deviled eggs with uni, and gravy fries as good as they make ’em in Jersey.

531 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014

14. Empellón Taqueria

230 W 4th St, New York, NY 10014
A flat tortilla with chunks of red meat and a salsa that looks like fish eggs.
Pastrami taco with mustard seed salsa at Empellón Taqueria.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

For creative Mexican fare, check out Empellon Taqueria from chef Alex Stupak, which sports a cocktail lounge in front and a formal dining room in back. The taco fillings may seem unusual to some, but many are also awesome, including short-rib pastrami with mustard seed salsa, and shaved Brussels sprouts with toasted almonds. Yes, this sort of thing has been done forever in L.A., but only more recently here.

230 W 4th St
New York, NY 10014

15. El Jalapeño Truck

72 Grove St, New York, NY 10014
A burrito browned on the outside cut in half and oozing cheese and meat.
Carne enchilada burrito from El Jalapeño.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

This bright orange-and-green van has become a fixture on the south side of Sheridan Square, where you can eat your purchases next to the stark white “Gay Liberation” sculpture by George Segal in what is now a national park. The tacos are good, for sure, with the usual fillings running from steak carne asada to the more uncommon ox tongue. Even better are the burritos, finished on the flattop till the flour tortilla wrappers warm and brown and bubble.

72 Grove St
New York, NY 10014

Related Maps

16. Jeju Noodle Bar

679 Greenwich Street, New York, NY 10014
A well windowed facade with a couple of figures walking by and a red awning.
The exterior of Jeju plays off its resemblance to Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks”
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Douglas Kim’s stylish Korean noodle parlor Jeju Noodle Bar serves up the Korean version of ramen, known as ramyun. These wavy noodles are dense and of high quality. One dark and tall bowl called “so-ramyun” features a beefy broth made from veal bones. Pieces of brisket and raw steak are dropped in the broth, as pickled garlic, fried garlic, and garlic oil ramp up the flavor. The exterior of the restaurant recalls Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks,” but it’s not the original — his real inspiration was a now-demolished diner at Greenwich Avenue and Seventh Avenue South.

679 Greenwich Street
New York, NY 10014

17. Suprema Provisions

305 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014
A storefront at night, with illuminated hams in the window and three shadowy figures passing outside.
Suprema Provisions by night.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

With entrances on both Bleecker Street and Seventh Avenue South, this ungainly space is long, crooked, and narrow, part of which is devoted to Italian groceries. But as the restaurant has increasingly become a hit, more of the space has been devoted to tables. At night, the dining room is dark and noisy, with a lively bar scene. The menu features impressive pastas and salads appropriate to the season, and a hamburger that seems out of place, but is commendable nonetheless. Mixed drinks are available, in addition to a modest wine list.

305 Bleecker St
New York, NY 10014

18. Taco Mahal

73 7th Ave S, New York, NY 10014
Two colorful Indian tacos made with thick naan bread.
Palak paneer tacos on naan.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

It’s a great place for a quick bite, but in good weather the sidewalk seating area at the corner of Bleecker and Seventh Avenue South proves excellent for people watching. The spare menu of this northern Indian café is flatbread “tacos,” including one made with a small roti and another with a big puffy naan. The less-starchy roti is the way to go, it can hold a substantial serving of palak paneer, lamb curry, crumbed and fried salmon, chickpeas, or chicken kebab. The palak paneer (spinach with cubed fresh cheese) is my favorite.

73 7th Ave S
New York, NY 10014

19. Casa

72 Bedford St, New York, NY 10014
A cast iron pot of beans and plate of rice, toasted yuca meal, and shredded kale.
Casa’s Feijoada, the Brazilian national dish.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Brazilian-Chinese expat Jupira Lee founded Casa (“home” in Portuguese) in 1998, and it quickly became a Village staple, located in perhaps the most picturesque part of the neighborhood. The interior is something like a farmhouse, and the centerpiece of the menu is feijoada, a black bean stew loaded with pork, served with sides that include orange segments, collard greens, polished rice, and farofa (a condiment of toasted yuca meal). Further menu highlights, some with African influences, feature shrimp and other seafood.

72 Bedford St
New York, NY 10014

20. Osteria Carlina

455 Hudson St, New York, NY 10014
Beige meat in a beige sauce with stem-on green caperberries.
Veal tonnato at Osteria Carlina.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

This newcomer concentrates on the cuisine of Italy’s far north, centering on Turin. Its tables spill onto the sidewalk in the southwestern corner of the neighborhood. The go-to starter is vitello tonnato, a dish of thin veal slices with a smoothly pureed sauce of tuna decorated with caperberries. Then proceed to a pasta like beet ravioli or a main course such as stuffed cuttlefish. The wine list isn’t cheap, but it has many estimable Italian wines, making this a great place for a celebratory meal.

455 Hudson St
New York, NY 10014

21. Commerce Inn

50 Commerce St, New York, NY 10014
Two glistening and grilled slabs of meat with a dab of mayo and shredded purple slaw.
Poached tongue at the Commerce Inn.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

This is currently the quirkiest of the West Village restaurants. Much of the interior is left over from a Portuguese bar of the 1960s, but with overtones of colonial Americana added. It represents the most recent experiment of restaurateurs Rita Sodi (I Sodi) and Jody Williams (Buvette), where they explore Shaker culture in an offhand sort of way. The cocktails are historic, and the food runs to roasted bone marrow, spoon pudding, melted cheese rarebit, beef tongue, poached leeks, and a marvelous roast chicken for two to share.

50 Commerce St
New York, NY 10014

22. I Love Panzerotti

220 Varick St, New York, NY 10014
An oblong pie with a brown crust cracked open to reveal meat and melted cheese.
Panzerotto at I Love Panzerotti.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Occupying a corner on the far southern border of the West Village, this establishment serves panzerotti almost exclusively — small fried pies (two make a meal) shaped something like a calzone that originated in Apulia, the heel of the Italian boot. They puff up nicely and the cheese inside melts and melds the other fillings together. My favorite features mortadella and mozzarella, but a dozen other permutations are offered, including a sweet one loaded with Nutella.

220 Varick St
New York, NY 10014

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