Iconic Gurney’s Montauk Resort on the ocean, with its newly reimagined spa, is just as magical off season and it’s waterfront is a perfect setting for an outpost of the Italian favorite. Watch the waves through oversized windows, while enjoying hearty seasonal dishes such as braised short ribs with vegetables and farro risotto and veal tenderloin with semolina gnocchi and crispy sweetbreads.

You can smell the wood-fired cooking as you walk by this buzzy Sag Harbor restaurant that turns out whole branzino and legendary cauliflower. After the summer, the wine list is discounted by 25 percent on Wednesdays, and dishes like pan-roasted chicken liver with agrodolce herb salad and dry-aged duck for two with garlic yogurt are good seasonal selections.

Italian influence lends heft to traditional Japanese fare at this cross-cultural lively dining room in East Hampton. Miso pumpkin soup; mushroom umami ravioli; paccheri with duck ragu and hatcho miso or lardo and uni crispy rice with dashi soy sauce are among the offerings.

The vibe may be lower key in general across the South Fork, but Bridgehampton’s popular Greek restaurant is not ready to slow down, continuing DJ night programming on select weekends through the fall. Look for stews including veal and rabbit alongside traditional offerings like lavraki and slow-roasted lamb ribs glazed in cherry preserves.

Avgolemono soup, roasted lamb with orzo, or spinach and feta pie are all good autumn selections at this popular Mediterranean restaurant in Water Mill. If you have a large party (over 10), the restaurant will create an $85 prix fixe including appetizers of saganaki, lamb meatballs, and tuna tartare, entrees like whole grilled fish and chicken souvlaki, and sides. If you want to go solo, sidle up to the bar on Friday nights when oysters are just $1 each.

In August, there is usually a line out the door at this restaurant, owned and designed by Gabby Karan and run like a tight ship by Nicholas Maracz, but things are a bit easier to navigate in the cooler months. Begin the evening on a comfy couch where you sip a cocktail and nibble on hot, wafer-thin pane carasau that’s drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with fresh rosemary and sea salt. Pastas include pillows of ravioli stuffed with ricotta and topped with borage and walnut pesto, and paccheri with beef ragu and provolone. If you arrive early, you can always peruse items at the Urban Zen shop off the bar, owned by Karan’s mom, Donna.

Maurizio Marfoglia has created a dining empire with his Dopo brand, including the newest that premiered in Bridgehampton this past summer, but this cozy spot on Southampton’s Main Street is particularly inviting in the cooler months. Whether you sit at the mahogany and cement bar, or gather in the spectacular wine room, warmed by reclaimed wood and lined with over a hundred bottles, you can enjoy dishes like buckwheat polenta with 10-year-aged Bitto cheese; lamb shank papardelle; and fish stew with potatoes and dry-cured olives.