Decorated like a movie theater, with a lobby in front and screening room in back, Potluck Club is a hyper-modern restaurant that remakes basic Cantonese food with all sorts of twists and influences. Salt-and-pepper chicken doing a convincing imitation of fried chicken arrives with scallion biscuits standing in for scallion pancakes; while rock shrimp, candied walnuts, and caulilini come smothered in mayo. Exploring the menu is downright fun.

Cantonese food has been enjoying a resurgence lately and Green Garden Village is a prime example. A lush display of ducks and other cured meats hang in the window, as well an impressive seafood selection, though standards like wonton soup (in deconstructed form) and beef chow fun hold their own. It’s also a great place for dim sum, especially rice noodle rolls.

As the old-guard Cantonese coffee shops like Hop Shing have closed, where does one go for the baked and steamed bao, steamed dumplings, and rice noodle rolls that are one of Chinatown’s greatest treasures? Golden Steamer is a narrow stall resembling a steam room in a spa, except the shelves and cabinets are lined with farinaceous treats, with fillings that run from savory to sweet, so it’s a great dessert spot, too. There’s no seating, however.

The decades-old institution remains one of Chinatown’s top bakeries, a place for ultra-affordable Chinese pastries. Hot dog scallion buns are always a smart move, as are the freshly made onigiri rice balls. But the chief draw is a warm egg tart (dan tat), filled with custard dense with the richness of egg yolks and with the top bruleed for a Macao-inspired treat. Also, look out for the ham-and-omelet breakfast sandwich.

This sprawling new restaurant is part of a four-location chain in New York and New Jersey, offering a pan-Chinese menu from the four corners of the country. There’s a sizzling lamb platter that smokes as it sails in, a crunchy vegetarian dish of bamboo shoots and Chinese celery, and an especially nice stir fry of cabbage and pork belly speckled with black beans. The alcohol list favors sakes, some of them flavored.

Mott Street Eatery is really a series of food vendors — in fact, since it opened last November, it’s become mobbed. The anchor is 89 Eatery, reversing the numbers of the address and serving the standard dim sum menu of dumplings, congee, and more kinds of lap mei (preserved ducks, chickens, and pig) than usual. Other stalls sell sushi, Hong Kong cakes and coffee, fancy burgers and lobster pizza, Hainanese chicken, and Taiwanese specialties.

Wendy Lian and Ren Fu Li’s gem of a Forsyth Street restaurant is a temple to a spectacular dish: big tray spicy chicken (da pan ji). The preparation involves dousing thick, hand-pulled noodles in a stew of chicken, garlic, potatoes, cumin, chiles, and star anise. With the capacity to feed at least two, the feast ranks as one of the city’s best large-format deals. Also go for a pork pancake, where stewed pork comes in sandwich form as a must-get appetizer. Spicy Village is BYOB.

Uncle Lou is one of several restaurants remaking Cantonese food in Chinatown, taking traditional recipes and kicking them up a notch with better ingredients and serving them ceremoniously on big round tables with turntables in the middle for easy sharing. Chef’s specials are called lo wah kiu (“the old timers”), and include steak cooked with chives, vegetarian tofu skin wraps, and homestyle chenpi duck, with sun-dried mandarin-orange-peel sauce.

Hopefully, this new Malaysian spot represents the resurgence of that cuisine in Chinatown, where there was once a half-dozen such restaurants radiating from the corner of Allen and Grand. The compact dining room at West New Malaysia is casual and stylish, and jellied ices are a focus, including the wonderful black jello snow ice. The oyster omelet is also worth trying on a menu that shouts “Brunch!”

Follow up a visit to any of the restaurants on this list with dessert at this petite ice cream shop that’s one of New York’s oldest and very best. Specialty flavors like green tea, black sesame, lychee, and a highly nutty zen butter — that’s peanut butter ice cream with toasted sesame seeds — shouldn’t be missed, though the fluffy texture is lovely with vanilla and strawberry as well. Any flavor can be packed in a pint and taken home.

Chef Akiko Thurnauer melds traditional Cantonese and Japanese recipes into dishes that New Yorkers would be hard-pressed to find anywhere else. Sake-steamed mussels, dan-dan noodles crowned with an onsen egg, and sweet-and-sour pork, with jowl and belly as the preferred cuts, are just a few examples. The fusion-style cooking is refreshing in a part of town where Japanese options are few.

This overlooked Chinatown tea shop dates back to the 1960s. It’s an old-school spot for inexpensive dim sum, servings of over-rice chicken duck, or pork; and steaming bowls of congee. Diners can either sit at a counter or a few tables in the back of the parlor or simply grab a leaf-wrapped bundle of sticky rice, known as joong, to go. Don’t miss the wonton soup.

Hidden on an obscure steep side street in the heart of the oldest part of Chinatown, Fried Dumpling is a stall that revolutionized inexpensive eats when it opened in 1999 on the Lower East Side — though this is the only branch left. Potstickers, stuffed with pork and chives and browned on the bottom, are the main attraction, though one can get vegetarian dumplings, sweet and sour soup, and warm soy milk, too. It’s a great place for a fortifying snack if you don’t want an entire meal.

The Cantonese spot helmed by chef Chuen Ping Hui has been serving consistently fresh seafood since the mid-1990s — and was once a major attraction for food critics. It was also one of the first places to serve dim sum in the afternoon and on into the evening. Get the Thai bass, a “perfectly prepared” steamed fish that’s caught and cooked on the spot, and Portuguese-style baked conch.

Over the Essex F train stop on the Lower East Side, Ming’s Caffe is a gloriously casual place that serves an inexpensive Hong Kong menu to immigrants, artists, and scenesters. Some go for the dim sum, which is comparable to any of the better spots in the neighborhood, while others prefer the almost-British breakfasts, like macaroni with spam and egg or toast smeared with condensed milk. Noodle soups and stir-fries round out the menu.

Founded in 1938, Wo Hop is the second oldest restaurant in Chinatown. The old-guard Cantonese American menu remains largely intact (you’ll spot the handful of more modern dishes immediately), and this is one of the only restaurants in Chinatown where chop suey are still to be found, along with chow mein and egg fu young. The walls of the subterranean space are lined with snapshots of happy patrons, including celebrities.

A few steps away from Nom Wah is this cafe with its numerous noodle options, many handmade on the premises. Styles vary — the kind of noodle, toppings, and whether it arrives pan-fried or in a soup — but it’s difficult to land on a bowl that’s not a winner. Go for the thicker and wider noodles, and don’t miss the pan-fried pork dumplings, better than what’s found at some of the specialty dumpling shops.

Head to this Hong Kong-style restaurant for Cantonese barbecued meats like duck served over rice, noodle stir-fries like beef chow fun, and “super-wonderful” rice noodle rolls. The restaurant opens at 8 a.m., so feel free to stop by for a bowl of congee in the morning, or its fragrant rice casseroles served in clay pots.

Though a relatively new addition to the Cantonese restaurants in New York — it opened in 2016 — Wu’s is an old-school counterpoint to the restaurants that surround it on the Lower East Side. The crispy garlic chicken is popular here and so is the whole fried flounder littered with scallions. Other favorites include the char siu buns, shrimp and egg scramble, and crab lo mein. The festive Wu’s has garnered a wine crowd for its BYOB policy. fcmm