Not long ago Oaxacan food was hard to find in New York City, and we looked with jealousy at Los Angeles, where long-established restaurants like Guelaguetza offered a fairly fulsome look at the cuisine. Heck, we even envied New Brunswick, New Jersey, where a handful of restaurants dedicated to Oaxacan cooking flourished. The cuisine is one of Mexico’s most fascinating, featuring as many as 200 pre-Columbian sauces called moles, often summarized as the “legendary seven moles of Oaxaca.” In addition, there are small masa cakes called memelas, tamales wrapped in banana leaves, soupy black beans, rubbery quesillo cheese, and dried beef tasajo, along with lavish use of grasshoppers.
While we still don’t have enough Oaxacan places, we now can boast of a substantial number. Here’s where to find excellent Oaxacan fare in NYC.
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