The highlights of the short menu at this marvelous taquería in the Mott Haven section of the Bronx include rolled and deep-fried tacos dorados; pancita, a robust tripe soup; and enchiladas verdes stuffed with seasoned ground beef, in what is perhaps a tip of the hat to Dominicans in the neighborhood, for whom ground beef picadillo is a treasured dish.

For more than two decades, an al pastor cylinder, topped with a very juicy pineapple, has slowly rotated in the open window of Taco Mix. The lush results, delivered on a pair of small corn tortillas, are further enhanced with pieces of fruit. Oreja (ear) and tripa (tripe) tacos are other good bets, but stick with the small tacos rather than the larger ones. (The tortillas are better, and the proportion of meat to tortilla is superior too.) Also check out the chicharrón and huitlacoche quesadillas, and be prepared to eat standing up.

On the fringes of Times Square and the Garment District, Tulcingo del Valle became one of the city’s prominent bodega taquerías shortly after opening in late 2001. It’s now more of a full-blown restaurant, though the grocery shelves remain. It’s named, like many Poblano restaurants, for the locale where its proprietors originated — e.g., Zaragoza, Izúcar, and Taquería Coatzingo — it refers to a small city in southwest Puebla state; it so happens that a number of other Poblano restaurants, especially in Jackson Heights, share the same origins.

Mind the chalkboard specials, or just order the cemita — a round seeded roll topped with your choice of carne enchilada, barbacoa de chivo, carnitas, or cecina (a classic Poblano salted beef) and heaped with beans, avocado, stringy cheese, mayo, chipotle peppers, and pungent pápalo leaves. Gorditas con chicharrón, sopes with a choice of toppings, and the Tulcingo tacos placeros are just as tasty. A complete collection of Mexican Jarritos sodas are available to wash down your meal.

Because it’s open from 9 a.m. till the wee hours of the morning, and is proximate to the Jackson Heights subway and bus station, Taquería Coatzingo is one of the most hopping Poblano restaurants in town. The menu is ingratiatingly broad, including chile-encrusted shrimp tacos with a saucy guacamole, chicken enchiladas smothered in crema and salsa verde, and meal-size soups like mole de olla and pozole, both served with a pair of tostadas.

In the northernmost part of the East Village, across 14th Street from Stuyvesant Town, Zaragoza has long been a bulwark in a neighborhood under assault by luxury real estate developments. The cafe serves up around four or five blue-plate specials each day — offerings might include egg-filled albóndigas in chile sauce, pork ribs and verdólagas (purslane) in salsa verde, smothered chile relleno, or its signature potato and chorizo enchiladas.

This quintessential bodega taquería was founded in Bushwick in 1986, and transformed into a fuller-fledged cafe in the aughts. It remains one of the city’s most charming examples of the genre. Order from the handwritten menu over the kitchen counter in the rear; you won’t go wrong with any of the Poblano staples, from the tacos placeros to the huaraches to the cemitas — or even the burrito of its own invention, sluiced with three sauces in the colors of the Mexican flag.

A glorious mural of the Virgin of Guadalupe towers outside this tiny taquería under the M tracks in Bushwick, which keeps whatever hours it pleases and has become famous citywide for its suadero tacos. In the urban style, these are made on a pair of small, white-corn tortillas topped with chunky and uber-mellow veal brisket, and garnished with chopped onions and cilantro. Apply whatever heat enhancer you want, contained in squirt bottles and metates along the narrow counter. (If the metates aren’t there, just ask.) Dried and oiled cayenne peppers are a favorite.

It all began with a cauldron of bubbling carnitas in a Bronx grocery, made by painstaking cook Denisse Chavez, that spawned a small, well-publicized Mexican bistro in Prospect Heights and a taquería attached to Parklife, a Gowanus bar. The Prospect Heights spot is now kaput, but the Parklife concession, now known as Antojitos El Atoradero, soldiers onward. It’s presided over by Chavez’s son Johnny Rosas, who’s still turning out wonderful tacos on her trademark blue-corn tortillas, as well as flautas and nachos that substitute french fries for the usual tortilla chips.

This combination Mexican grocery, bakery, sandwich shop, and cafe in Flatbush tenders the expected tacos, sopes, huaraches, and quesadillas, and it truly excels at mole enchiladas, chilaquiles, and tortas. Still, you should skip them all and order a cemita. They’re made with a round seeded roll layered with beans, chiles, cheese, and avocado in addition to a main ingredient of your choice — three kinds of breaded cutlet milanesa are standard — and fresh pápalo leaves, which scent the sandwich with the fragrance of burning leaves in autumn and send the whole thing into orbit.