Opened in 2017, this elegant Upper West Side location of Jing Fong is the only one we have left at the moment. All the usual dim sum is available late into the evening, some of it innovative but most of it standard. Platings are lush for a dim sum joint, and there are mixed drinks, too, making dim sum popular for a quick bite or group brunches in this neighborhood.

This narrow storefront in the midst of Flushing’s transportation hub is not what many New Yorkers may think of as a spot for stellar dim sum. Though a broad range of dim sum is available, the specialties are congee and steamed rice noodle rolls, the latter bigger and lusher than usual, with the fillings — which run to pork ribs with black bean sauce, curried fish balls, and stewed beef brisket, among a dozen others — dumped on top rather than rolled inside. Chiles stuffed with shrimp paste was another delight.

Though somewhat obscurely located on the edge of an industrial district down by the Flushing River, Asian Jewels (formerly Ocean Jewels) is the neighborhood’s pre-eminent dim sum palace, offering a bit of luxury at surprisingly low prices. Though its dumplings lack the delicacy of, say, Bamboo Garden’s, the dim sum choices are solid and even innovative. Recommendations include the vegetarian rice rolls, minced beef balls, salt and pepper fried anchovies, and “baked sweet Mexican bun.”

Along with the fast casual cafes popping up all over town, this homegrown chain that broadcasts its Hong Kong roots may also be the future of dim sum. Offering a soupcon of elegance, it fabricates a broad range of congees and dumplings, including relatively thin-skinned xiaolongbao, and diaphanous siu mai bursting with shrimp, served with multiple dipping sauces and all at slightly elevated prices. Tea is another specialty.

This sprawling Chinese restaurant in Forest Hills, a neighborhood with a growing number of Chinese restaurants, serves favorite dim sum plates like outsize watercress-and-fish dumplings, beef rice noodles flavored with cilantro, shrimp har gow and humongous siu mai, and fatty pork riblets in a steamer dotted with black beans. Later in the day, the place turns into a very good Cantonese seafood restaurant.

The last couple of years have seen the demise of some of the larger banquet halls, which were the primary destinations for dim sum, while new places have specialized in much narrower selections, as Yin Ji Chang Fen demonstrates. This Chinese import form Guangzhou — where the delicacy originated — specializes in steamed rice rolls more fully stuffed than the city had seen before, proffered as a main course; two or three make a full meal.

This antique lunch counter offers great dim sum of the coffee-shop sort, not delicate or expensive, eaten mainly by older locals who linger by the hour over a plate or two. Dim sum, mostly pulled from a steam cabinet, falls in three categories: dumplings, baked buns, and congee. Taking Chinatown back to the 1950s, this is a place not to be missed.

The oldest continuously operating restaurant in Chinatown, this relic of a bygone era near Doyers Street’s historic Bloody Angle (the site of 19th century tong murders) has been lovingly restored to something like its 1920s era. With no carts, customers check off their dim sum orders on a pad of paper, and a server delivers the order. The dim sum, too, has an antique quality, as seen in the well-braised chicken feet, tasty and funky turnip cakes, and fluffy steamed char siu bao. And the outdoor seating on the Doyers Street is some of the best in the city.

On the border of Sunset Park and Bay Ridge, East Harbor is the largest dim sum parlor in Brooklyn, with rolling carts, private rooms, big round tables with lazy susans, and one of the longest dim sum menus in the city. Oversized fish balls, soy-braised chicken feet scattered with fresh green chiles, open-ended rice rolls cut like tekkamaki, and goji berry gelatin are highlights. Saturday and Sunday around noon remain peak times, so go early or on a weekday.

Bamboo Garden closed and reopened in 2017, refurbishing a pair of luxurious dining rooms in gold and powder blue, and a charcuterie carryout in the front vestibule. Many now-popular forms of dim sum appeared here for the first time, including pig custard buns (aimed at children), giant soup dumplings that floated in bowls of soup, and a chicken-and-mushroom hot dish that circulates on small saucers. Closed nearly a year for the pandemic (though the carryout in front was still in operation), the dining room has now reopened with well-spaced tables.