The city’s dining scene furnishes comfort soups in profusion. We seek them out when the weather is bad, when we’re coming down with a cold, or simply need a mood booster. Ramen, pho, matzo, and lentil always make the list. But what about congee? This Chinese rice porridge is so extensively cooked that the grains fade into a vast white canvas, fortified with a few feisty ingredients that we fish for like lakeside anglers. A bowlful makes you feel warm all over while it soothes your throat.
Yet congee isn’t available everywhere. In fact, you pretty much have to go to Chinatown to get it. Here’s why. Here are ten favorite bowls, and details about a perfect accompaniment, the youtiao — a stick of fried dough that’s akin to a lighter, more airy, and unsweetened version of a doughnut.Read More