Offering the Peruvian take on ceviche, Mission grew out of a pair of downtown food-court stalls to become the most ambitious purveyor of the South American version of the raw fish dish in Manhattan — with prices to match. But the tradition is not limited to ceviche with its various raw seafood ingredients, but it also offers Japanese-Peruvian tartares and tiraditos, the latter featuring raw tuna mired in a thick passion-fruit tiger’s milk garnished with flowers.

Peruvian ceviches (or cebiches) differ markedly from Mexican versions with their inclusion of lemon or bitter orange instead of lime juice, and the addition of potatoes, hominy, sweet potatoes, or corn kernels of various — sometimes-colorful — varieties. Kausa is a Hell’s Kitchen restaurant that specializes in Peruvian food, offering seven configurations of ceviche and four of tiradito — here consisting of sliced raw fish bathed in a piquant fruity sauce.

Though this restaurant with its strikingly pink outdoor dining structure specializes in Oaxacan cuisine, the beach theme alone is enough reason to order a ceviche or two. Luckily, founder Jose Castillo Reyes delivers on that promise. One ceviche features shrimp and squid, and crushed red chiles make it spicier than ceviches in Mexican restaurants often are, while heirloom cherry tomatoes add sweetness.

Open two years ago on Jackson Heights’s main drag, El Submarino — with a playful logo of a submarine with a handlebar moustache — is one of the most noted Mexican restaurants to specialize in ceviches. In addition to those made with fish, shrimp, and octopus, or a mixture, the ceviche here is additionally served on tostadas; and aguachiles, which are a larger, soupier versions originating in Sinaloa, the home state of chef Alonso Guzman.

Diverse aguachiles, ceviches mounted on tostadas, and seafood cocktails are on the agenda of this offshoot of Los Tacos No. 1 located in Chelsea Market (with a special door from the outside, so you don’t have to enter the complex). Seafood used in various configuration of these dishes runs to shrimp, fish, squid, octopus, and scallops, and Los Mariscos is a great place to wolf down a ceviche without enduring a sit-down restaurant.

The ability of the ceviche formula to adapt to different cultures is nothing short of amazing. Witness this wonderful Indian take on ceviche at Sona from chef Hari Nayak. It features raw pink snapper in a pink broth composed of coconut milk and kokum, which imparts a striking color and intense tartness.

West Village residents know to fill the seats at this Peruvian restaurant’s indoor and outdoor dining spaces for fresh ceviches and tiraditos. There are nearly a dozen ceviche and tiradito options, but folks are most often getting the clasico — made here with fluke, sweet potato, choclo (fat white Peruvian corn kernels), red onion, and spicy leche de tigre. For those who just want a taste, Panca offers a ceviche shot which is the clasico served in two or three bites.

Demonstrating how bistros — especially those that partly concentrate on seafood — have also turned to ceviche, Leroy House in the West Village via chef David Werner offers a lively sea bass ceviche that makes an excellent appetizer, where the chunks of fish are interspersed with avocado and fresh serrano peppers, making it spicy in a restrained sort of way. But the signal achievement of this West Village restaurant lies in furnishing the ceviche with freshly fried potato chips rather than tostadas, perfect for dipping and adding an extra level of saltiness.

“Mr. Ceviche” is a Peruvian counter founded by Lenin Costas in the Essex Market, turning out more Peruvian specialties in a small space than seems possible — and rotisserie chickens, too. The place offers a pair of ceviches, one a leche de tigre (”tiger’s milk”) — mixed seafood immersed in a sour broth that is intended to be drunk afterwards, said to have aphrodisiacal properties. The toasted corn called cancha adds crunch.

Owner and chef Fabiola Maldonado has made aguachiles an important focus of her menu at Palomas BK. One dish features scallops with cucumbers and avocado in a sharp lime broth, which only makes the raw shellfish, which turns an opaque white, sweeter than if it were fried or grilled. For vegetarians, there’s a version featuring crunchy jicama that develops its own interesting qualities when soaked in the soup, though it poses the question: Can you have a ceviche without any actual seafood? F

Chef Eric Tran dips into the Mexican side of his combined Vietnamese-Mexican heritage to come up with a spectacular ceviche on his innovative menu. On a recent occasion, it was tilefish that had been diced and paired with sliced avocado, and served with tostadas and a freshly made orange hot sauce much like that usually served with Peruvian ceviches — it all packs quite a wallop.