This Inwood lunch counter feels like a tiny diner where customers sitting at a handful of stools order fried eggs, pancakes, and burgers. One item of particular merit is the breakfast burrito, which finds the egg cooked as a layer inside of the flour tortilla, as if it were a Beijing bing, and then cubed and browned breakfast potatoes and nuggets of avocado crammed inside, making one of the best examples of the breakfast burrito genre. It isn’t bursting at the seams like some other burritos on this list, but it’s just as satisfying.

As businesses like Reyes Deli in Park Slope and Zaragoza in the East Village go to show, some of the city’s best Mexican food is found behind the counters of neighborhood delis and grills. Don’t be deterred by the fact that most of the burritos here come with mozzarella cheese: Fillings like carne enchilada, cecina, and bistec more than compensate. Try a burrito with the latter meat (whose name is derived from “beef steak”), which comes wrapped up with rice, beans, guacamole, and crema in a tortilla.

Electric Burrito landed in the East Village last year, giving a proper home to the french fry-filled burritos of Southern California. There’s no shortage of burritos on the menu, but two can’t be missed: The California burrito — with carne asada, pico de gallo, and firm, salty fries — is a must-order for those who have never had one, while the lunch burrito with egg and refried beans makes for a comforting meal any time of day.

One of two New Mexican restaurants on this list, Santa Fe stands out for its stellar breakfast burritos served from a takeout window in Williamsburg (ahead of opening for full-service indoor dining this spring). Owners John Watterberg and Melissa Klein hand-press their flavorful and chewy flour tortillas, before filling them with eggs, green Hatch chiles, and proteins like potato, bacon, and sausage. Order one for $9, or mix-and-match a bag of six burritos for $50.

The selection of groceries at Santa Ana Deli and Grocery has dwindled since opening in 2005, and in its place, a menu of tacos, cemitas, and burritos has continued to grow. In the latter category, there’s no better than the namesake Santanero burrito, which comes sauced with crema, salsa, and cilantro in a style meant to evoke the Mexican flag. It is stuffed with an impressive number of ingredients, including rice, beans, onion, mushroom, poblano pepper, guacamole, cheese, and crema, before adding meat.

From this colorful Clinton Hill taqueria, owner Pepe Urquijo is serving one of the borough’s most accurate representations of the San Francisco-style burrito. The restaurant’s flakey flour tortillas are filled with pico de gallo, rice, and beans, while the trio of crema, cheese, and avocado — what’s sometimes referred to as “a super” in the northern California city — are included by default. The best bet is the knockout garlic butter shrimp, but keep your eyes peeled for the sometimes-there, sometimes-not carne asada.

Ursula isn’t just a breakfast burrito spot. It’s a “green chile-fueled love letter to New Mexico,” as Eater called it shortly after opening, ripe with stuffed sopaipillas and chile rellenos from chef-owner Eric See. Still, New Yorkers continue to line up here in the early mornings, when the restaurant serves New Mexican-style burritos, made with eggs, hash browns, Hatch chiles, and — best of all — smoky chorizo or vegan pinto beans. Served until noon.

This South Slope cafe is open 24 hours, but it’s worth visiting during the morning when the smells of conchas and champurrado slip out onto the sidewalk. A small grill churns out huaraches, cemitas, and other Mexican fare, including a breakfast burrito different than most others in the city. A whole potato is boiled until tender and salty, then wrapped up with American cheese, griddled egg, and sausage or another breakfast meat. Pair it with with a cup of atole — or a bag of Takis, from a vending machine at the back of the restaurant — for a breakfast around $10.