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There’s No Escaping the Department Store Omakase

Find chef’s counters in hotel rooms, Chinatown alleys, the new Wegmans, and now an underground jewelry store in Midtown

A chef makes a sushi hand roll using a wooden tool.
The underground mall at Saks Fifth Avenue will soon be home to a sushi counter.
Mariah Tauger/Getty Images

Omakase restaurants are turning up in the unlikeliest of places: the basement of Grand Central, for one, or in the back of this Chelsea food court. But chef’s counters haven’t hit peak weird yet. Later this month, a sushi counter is opening in the underground vaults of Saks Fifth Avenue, serving a $95 omakase with uni flown in from Hokkaido and a caviar course. It opens on June 22.

The six-seat counter, called Hoseki, is run by Daniel Kim, a sushi chef who previously worked at restaurant groups including Sushi by Bou and Sushi Zo. He’s serving a 12-course omakase with seared albacore, tuna belly, trout, and truffle. Hand rolls can be ordered a la carte from the counter in sets of three, four, and six for $35, $40, and $70, respectively.

The restaurant is on an underground floor of Saks Fifth Avenue that the Cut called the “ultimate luxury destination for high fine jewelry and watches” when it opened in 2019. The 12,000-square-foot space with fluorescent elevators is where the department store sells its “fanciest, most expensive pieces,” according to the publication. And now uni.

Omakase is a Japanese phrase that translates as “I leave it up to you” in English. It’s used to describe sushi counters where cuts of seafood are selected by a chef. Why open one in a Chinatown alley, a Nomad hotel room, or the new Wegmans on Astor Place? As Grub Street notes this week, in most cases, the restaurants can be set up without much equipment in the kitchen, given that most of the food is served raw.

Hoseki will be open from 12 to 4 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday, with seats reservable on Resy.