The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week

The amount of excellent food available in New York City is dizzying — even during a pandemic — yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we do come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week — so you can, too.

April 24

Caesar salad at the Fly

Crunchy and balanced, I loved the towering Caesar salad ($16) from Bed-Stuy’s the Fly. It was nicely salted with a great textural balance lent by the crisp romaine and the breadcrumbs — and was a perfect counterpart to the popular half chicken. While this restaurant is a bit of a journey from my Bushwick residence, the salad was more than worth the trek. 549 Classon Avenue, near Fulton Street, Bed-Stuy — Kristen Kornbluth, social media manager

Chicken lunch special at Poulette

Poulette is a new Hell’s Kitchen restaurant that specializes in French-style rotisserie chickens — that means tender flesh and a well-browned skin sprinkled with rosemary and other herbs. The flavor of the herbs pleasantly penetrates the poultry, but you may find yourself eating the wonderful sides first. A lunch special ($14, served 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.) offers two of them plus a choice of sauces. The sides skew French, too, including a ratatouille in a profuse serving and mashed potatoes so rich they must be half butter. Instead of using the mustard sauce, I dipped my chicken in the mashed potatoes. 790 9th Avenue, between 52nd and 53rd streets, Hell’s Kitchen — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Melissa McCart/Eater NY

Adjaruli khachapuri at Ubani

Georgian restaurants continue to proliferate around Manhattan and Brooklyn and this charming little cafe is among them. Ubani is a sliver of a space that’s a coffee shop, bakery, and wine bar. At dinner it offers an extensive menu of appetizers and mains as well as no shortage of baked goods — impressive for such a tiny space. This classic khachapuri ($15) is among them, the boat-shaped pie filled with cheese and an egg that the server swirls around to unleash the smell of popcorn. This version is a bit more diminutive than most in that there isn’t the usual extended handle on either side to tear off and dredge in the cheeses, but it was satisfying nonetheless. I’d go here again to work through their stellar Georgian wine selection of 20 to 25 by-the-glass selections that range from $13 to $17. Bottles are fair priced too, with plenty of listings under $50. 37A Bedford Street, near Carmine Street, West Village — Melissa McCart, editor

Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Eggs Rothko at Little Egg

One thing that’s always perplexed me about this long-running column is that the best dishes we ate “this week” are almost always consumed the week before. Not this time. About five hours before the time of publishing, I sat in a latte-colored booth at Little Egg, the second coming of a popular breakfast spot, called Egg, that closed during the pandemic. It returned a block from my apartment on Friday, and I was intrigued to see it’s open on Mondays starting at 7:30 a.m. I popped in before work for a plate of eggs Rothko, the restaurant’s somewhat famous take on toad-in-a-hole that’s blanketed in melted cheese. It comes with a side of broiled tomatoes and the option of kale, bacon, or country ham: A full meal for $19, gratuity included. 657 Washington Avenue, near Saint Marks Avenue, Prospect Heights — Luke Fortney, reporter

April 17

Tteokbokki with tempura at Itaewon Pocha

Like Adam and God on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, my friends grabbed at a stainless steel stew of rice cakes and dumplings, meeting halfway. Yup, we were back at Itaewon, the second-floor Koreatown bar where NewJeans is always on the playlist, and shaking a small whirlpool into a bottle of Chamisul is mandatory before drinking. We were killing time while waiting for a karaoke room at Gagopa, upstairs, and ordered the tteokbokki with tempura vegetables, pan-fried dumplings, and a sweeter version of gochujang called “ketchup sauce” on the menu ($23). This is drinking food, after all, and it did its job faithfully, offering us grease, salt, and carbs in equal measures to keep the night going, whether or not it should. 28 W. 32nd Street, between Fifth Avenue and Broadway, Koreatown — Luke Fortney, reporter

Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Sushi for two at Hana

Years ago the East Village and the Lower East Side were paved with inexpensive Japanese restaurants that offered a full menu that included teriyaki, udon, yakitori, and tempura, in addition to good sushi. As Japanese restaurants have become more specialized, many of the old places have disappeared, but Hana (“flower”) is one that has lingered and is still worth visiting. The sushi for two ($41) is a great deal, including 18 pieces of nigiri sushi and two rolls with an introductory salad. That’s plenty of food for two people who might be, say, on a date, and the staging of the dish provides a nice topic of conversation. You can play hide and seek around the tower of shrimp. 111 Rivington Street, between Essex and Ludlow streets, Lower East Side — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Melissa McCart/Eater NY

Sour cherry gelato at Gelateria Gentile

It’s magical to find what feels like a secret place, hiding in plain sight, and this wedge of a shop that I went to thanks to our critic Robert Sietsema, is such a spot. A gelateria by way of Bari, Italy, Gelateria Gentile features a collection of really great flavors from sour cherry and coffee to stracciatella that might just taste better when ordered in a cone bowl ($5.50 to $8.50). The shop also has a collection of granita, of which the melon was particularly heavenly, and there’s even a granita on brioche option ($7.50). There are additional locations in Nolita and in Williamsburg. 43 Eighth Avenue, near Horatio Street, West Village — Melissa McCart, editor

Dar Burger at Dar525

After being out sick, I’ve been eating mostly gentle foods that are too boring to put in this guide. But this weekend, I stopped by Dar 525, which has locations in Greenpoint and Williamsburg, and one coming soon to Bed-Stuy, and shared their burger. There’s nothing so out of the ordinary for the Mediterranean menu here, but it’s a really solid neighborhood spot, with a burger that can hold it down. A nicely squishy bun comes topped with feta, onion, and tomato for what feels like a reconfigured Greek salad ($18). You can pick sweet potato fries or regular to come with the burger, sadly worth mentioning in an era where fries are often an extra charge. 168 Driggs Avenue, at Diamond Street, Greenpoint — Emma Orlow, reporter

April 10

Cinnamon raisin bagel at Bakeri

Pictured here is one of the great bagels of our time, a baked good whose quality is so apparent no cream cheese, scrambled egg, bacon, or American cheese is needed. Bakeri, a Greenpoint cafe with another location in Williamsburg, makes a handful of pastries worth seeking out, but these bagels are the best of them ($2). Dense, squat, and baked to the point of almost looking burnt, you’d think they’d be dry, but bite inside a cinnamon raisin one and it’s clear they’re made with a generous hand. Gold and purple raisins are distributed evenly throughout, keeping the pastry moist and acidic, with specks of what appear to be corn meal hiding underneath. 105 Freeman Street, near Franklin Street, Greenpoint — Luke Fortney, reporter

Emma Orlow/Eater NY

Pistachio-cardamom root beer float at Revelie Luncheonette

New York institution Raoul’s opened the doors on a new spot last week — a part of the growing trend of restaurants calling themselves luncheonettes. The menu isn’t reinventing any wheels with an abbreviated selection of items like burgers (regular or one with green chile), blackened catfish sandwiches, and fried chicken. But it’s a charming place to saddle up to the bar for a bite. True to form, Revelie Luncheonette also serves root beer floats ($10), which can be studded with the ice cream of your choice. I went for the pistachio and cardamom flavor, which enhanced the vanilla-y and licorice notes of the soda. 179 Prince Street, between Sullivan and Thompson streets, Soho — Emma Orlow, reporter

Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Cumin fish filets at Corner Chinese Food

The Corner is a new Hell’s Kitchen restaurant that seems like a cross between P.F. Chang’s and one of the city’s better Sichuan restaurants, presenting a menu of Chinese American commonplaces mixed with aggressively hot and spicy dishes. In this dish, fish filets recall the spicing of cumin lamb dishes found on menus across the city. Yes, there’s cumin and cilantro in the mix, but predominant is the anesthetic burn of Sichuan peppercorns, which comes as a surprise when you bite into a crisp tilapia filet that might have been borrowed from a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich. The sauteed onions add another delightful vector to a dish that a friend described as “tasting like Doritos.” 698 9th Avenue, at 48th Street, Hell’s Kitchen — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Kristen Kornbluth/Eater NY

Laab gai krob at Mao Mao

Since I moved to the city last summer, I’ve known Mao Mao as a favorite for dinner and a show on the border of Bushwick and Bed-Stuy. The sultry, heavily decorated Thai spot projects films on the wall for your viewing while you chow down on fried chiles and pickled green mango. I ordered the laab gai krob ($15) and it was the perfect meal to have alongside a beer or a fruity cocktail. The fried chicken was satisfyingly chewy and sour from the lime juice, balanced nicely by the red onion, and overall extremely flavorful. Meanwhile, the roasted rice powder added some nutty depth to the dish. I’ve been craving it since I ate it. 1000 Broadway, near Willoughby Avenue, Bushwick — Kristen Kornbluth, social media manager

Melissa McCart/Eater NY

Funnel cake at Superiority Burger

It’ll take me a minute to work through the savory dishes at Superiority Burger (in part because the menu is changing, the specials switch up, and offerings dribble out late night — too late for me), but I’m a fan of pastry chef Darcy Spence’s desserts so far, particularly the date milkshake or Nancy’s orange flower funnel cake with preserved blueberry compote and labneh gelato ($16). Who is Nancy? And what did she do to earn an orange flower funnel cake named after her? Yet another thing to discover at the newly reopened spot. 119 Avenue A, near East Seventh Street, East Village — Melissa McCart

April 3

Chongqing chicken at Chi

This isn’t a dish I typically order because it’s often one-note and too hot, but the Chongqing chicken ($26) ended up on my table when I went to Chi recently, the sibling restaurant to Spy C Cuisine in Forest Hills from anesthesiologist Dr. Thomas Lo and chef Tom Lei. I loved it for its presentation and subtle heat that didn’t dominate the other plates. Overall, the place is pleasantly surprising, packing the house with its sophisticated presentation of regional Chinese dishes for competitive prices. It’s not cheap, but on par with other ambitious Chinese spots, you can grab an entree, appetizer, and drink for $50 or $60. 492 Ninth Avenue, near West 38th Street, Midtown West — Melissa McCart, editor

Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Guru hingal at Village Cafe

TikTok is often criticized for blowing up restaurants, a strange turn of phrase that can often be interpreted literally because once the crowds descend, your favorite neighborhood spot may as well not exist. Once in a while, though, the app reminds me that it’s not all bad, turning up an old-school gem outside of the usual neighborhoods. It’s how a friend and I ended up at Village Cafe last week. The Azerbaijani restaurant feels like a tiny home set up in the parking lot of a Midwood liquor store: Step inside, and you almost have to duck under the sloped ceilings. Never mind the decor, or the Russian music videos playing on a wide-screen television in the back, because exceptional grilled meats await. We tried the lulya kebabs, an Azerbaijani version of kofte that’s wrapped in something like lavash. They’re among the top meats I’ve had this year, but even better was the plate of wide, flat noodles and ground lamb known as guru hingal ($12). The swirl of herbs, meat, and carbs was perfect on a cold night with a long walk back to the subway. 1968 Coney Island Avenue, between Quentin Road and Avenue P, Midwood — Luke Fortney, reporter

Pork and broccoli rabe at G. Esposito & Sons

After receiving a tip that G. Esposito & Sons would be closing in Carroll Gardens after a century, I headed over to the neighborhood sandwich spot to get a last taste. Though the butcher shop sells more than just pork, it felt only right to get a sandwich that pays homage to the name. I went for the pork and broccoli rabe ($16), which had so much meat stuffed in it that it kept me going through the whole day. Get a taste for yourself before it closes on April 10. 357 Court Street, between President and Union streets, Carroll Gardens — Emma Orlow, reporter

Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Kampachi sashimi at Japonica

Before izakaya and $500 sushi omakase were popular in the city, there was Japonica. Founded in 1978, it was a primary sushi destination in the last century and remains a local favorite. Kampachi, also known as amberjack, is a fish something like hamachi, only darker and more strongly flavored. Here it’s delightfully fanned out on the plate as an appetizer ($20). The flavor may be modified by dipping the swatches in soy sauce, or coating them in the hot paste or chopped scallions cradled in a shiso leaf. I prefer them plain, and the flavor of the fish is sweet and almost meaty. 90 University Place, between 12th and 13th streets, Greenwich Village — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Whole lobster pasta at Bad Roman

I’m not usually one to go for big-ticket, gimmicky items on a dinner menu, but I couldn’t resist the two-pound whole lobster Calabrian pasta ($95) at Bad Roman. I was there with a large enough group to justify the price tag, and the resounding take afterward was that it was one of our favorite dishes of the night. The dish is presented with the lobster split in half, and there’s plenty of lightly spicy pasta to go around. (Those willing to get their hands dirty will enjoy digging through the claws and tail for tender lobster meat.) It’s truly an ideal group dinner dish and makes a lasting impression. Other standouts we loved from our meal: the garlic babka, ’roni cups with ranch, and tiramisu ice cream cake — fun shareable dishes that made the crowded, buzzy restaurant feel like even more of a party. 10 Columbus Circle, between West 58th and 59th streets, Columbus Circle — Stephanie Wu, editor-in-chief

Nadia Q. Ahmad/Eater NY

Mushroom momos at Lhasa

I recently met up with a friend in Washington Square around iftar time, and after I broke my fast we decided to head somewhere nearby for a more substantial meal. We let my stomach lead the way, and I’d been craving momos. Jackson Heights usually comes to mind as the place to get them, so I was delighted to discover that Tibetan restaurant Lhasa has a location in the East Village. We tried the vegetable combo momos, which included mushroom, potato, and chive, but had to order a second plate of just the standout mushroom ones ($12). I’d never had momos with this filling before: They were earthy and soft with a nice, meaty bite. 177 First Avenue, at 11th Street, East Village — Nadia Q. Ahmad, copy editor