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The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week

Australian breakfasts, Lebanese crunch wraps, and more

A giant plate of eggs, hash browns, bacon, etc.
The “big breakfast” at Little Ruby’s Cafe.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week.

December 11

Big breakfast at Little Ruby’s Cafe

The West Village in particular has become a hotspot for Australian dining of a casual sort. Recently taking over a landmark pie-shaped building right on Sheridan Square, Little Ruby’s Cafe offers burgers, pastas, and all-day breakfasts, which it calls “brekkies.” The most Australian, perhaps, is the one named big breakfast ($19): two eggs your way, bacon, mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, baked beans, hash browns, and two slices of sourdough toast. For Americans, baked beans are an odd touch for breakfast, achingly sweet, but if you consider them dessert, they work fine. For breakfast, this might be too big a feed, but for lunch, it’s the perfect amount. 225 W. 4th Street, at 7th Avenue South, West Village — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

Pork belly at Naks.
Lechon liempo at Naks.
Melissa McCart/Eater NY

Lechon Liempo at Naks

I was psyched to try Naks in its opening week for the kamayan menu ($135 per person) with dishes you eat with your hands. I especially liked the contrast of textures in one of the last courses, lechon liempo, pork belly served beside small plates of bamboo shoots (labong) and bitter melon (ampalaya) salads, both of which were a delight. The pot of stewed vegetables capped off an epic round of savory dishes before a slew of desserts. I’m looking forward to trying the a la carte menu next. 201 First Avenue, near East 12th Street, East Village — Melissa McCart, editor

The breakfast sandwich at Kitty’s.
The breakfast sandwich at Kitty’s.
Emma Orlow/Eater NY

Breakfast sandwich at Kitty’s Market

For all the changes in Hudson, New York, there are not that many places where you can eat a quick takeout meal. At $7, the breakfast sandwich at Kitty’s is not only conveniently located across from the Amtrak station, but it is also one of the more affordable breakfast options in town. It’s a straightforwardly delicious breakfast sandwich: hamburger bun, scrambled eggs, aioli, and in a twist, some sauerkraut on top. Add sausage or bacon for a few more dollars. 60 South Front Street, across from the train station, Hudson — Emma Orlow, reporter

A hand holds a quarter of a “crunch wrap” with sausage, potatoes, and lots of sauce.
The Lebanese crunch wrap at Hen House.
Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Lebanese Crunchwrap at Hen House

Lately, it seems like nothing is safe from being turned into a Crunchwrap Supreme. You blink, and another New York restaurant is selling its take on the Taco Bell dish. They now come with Puerto Rican pernil and Lebanese shawarma. The latest to turn up is at Hen House, where owner Antony Nassif makes a crunch wrap with sausage, potatoes, pickles, and lots more. Yogurt and piri piri sauces are poured over the top and in place of a tostada, he uses deep-fried pita ($23). All the elements of a crunch wrap are there, except for maybe the appearance: It’s stuffed to the brim and cut into quarters. 120 First Avenue, near East 7th Street, East Village — Luke Fortney, reporter

Cold poached chicken at Bonnie’s

Bonnie’s cold poached chicken is magical. The half-chicken ($38) is beautifully tender and served bone-on, but what takes it over the top is the ginger-scallion sauce: It’s a flavorful punch that comes through in the chicken itself, seeps onto the bed of rice it’s served on, and then in a delicious finale, is the star of the cup of broth that comes on the side. Cold chicken and hot soup is an incredible pairing that deserves a place on more menus, and Bonnie’s does it brilliantly. 398 Manhattan Avenue, at Frost Street, Williamsburg — Stephanie Wu, editor-in-chief

December 4

Scallion noodles at Formosa

Brooklyn has a new restaurant from a founder of Samiwago, the popular Taiwanese dumpling shop in Manhattan’s Chinatown. At Formosa, it’s hard not to fill up on dumplings — there are seven kinds on the menu — but its noodle and rice dishes are equally great. I enjoyed the scallion noodles, which come with braised tofu, fried egg, and bok choy. The portion is generous for $12,

and the flat, chewy noodles hit the spot on a cold fall day. I’ll be back to try other dishes, like lu rou fan and beef noodle soup, soon. 144 Evergreen Avenue, at Jefferson Street, Bushwick — Luke Fortney, reporter

A paper bowl of rice cake in red sauce with batter coated hot dog cut up.
The spicy rice cake and hot dog combo at Jongro Hotdog.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Spicy rice cake and hot dog combo at Jongro Rice Hotdog

The spicy rice cake bowl is classic Korean food. Chewy tubular rice cakes are laved with gochujang with some bonus fishcake, making for a rib-sticking meal. But throw in a deep-fried Korean corndog — which has a rice batter, of course — and you’ve got a meal fit for a king ($10). The hot dog is all beef and adds engaging salty notes, and if the dogs slip out of their blankets as you dig into the bowl, all the better, because the coating reads like cylindrical mochi doughnuts, sweet and bouncy. Located in the Afternoon complex in Koreatown, Jongro Rice Hotdog has six other locations in the city. 33 West 32nd Street, near Broadway, Koreatown — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

A spoonful of chocolate mousse with whipped cream on a white plate.
The chocolate mousse at Cafe Fiorello.
Stephanie Wu/Eater NY

Chocolate mousse at Cafe Fiorello

Even after living here for so many years, there are still a great number of New York City institutions I haven’t visited, like the nearly 50-year-old Cafe Fiorello across the street from Lincoln Center. It’s a classic red-sauce spot that’s a great pre- or post-show option, but the star of the menu is the chocolate mousse ($15). It’s thick enough to provide some resistance against a spoon, has a balanced chocolate flavor, and is served with a glob of whipped cream that’s the same size as the mousse itself. The final flourish: a scattering of chocolate shavings for texture. 1900 Broadway, between 63rd and 64th streets, Upper West Side — Stephanie Wu, editor-in-chief

Fried shrimp and curry cabbage onigirazu at Takahachi, a new Japanese bakery in Bushwick..
The fried shrimp and curry cabbage onigirazu at Takahachi Bakery.
Emma Orlow/Eater NY

Fried shrimp and curry cabbage onigiri sandwich at Takahachi S.A.

In reporting on an onigirazu spot in the East Village, a colleague alerted me that a new Japanese bakery in Bushwick also sold the Japanese rice sandwiches. Takahachi Bakery opened in Bushwick this spring (there’s a sibling location in Fidi) — a sprawling new spot where corn, edamame, and red bean-stuffed pastries are made fresh. They also have several types of onigirazu (a cousin to onigiri resembling a sandwich). I went for the fried shrimp and curry cabbage version ($6.50), premade, and placed in its refrigerator for takeout. They were not the best onigirazu I’ve had, but the bakery is still a welcomed addition for a morning or afternoon snack that I can’t wait to come back to. 29 Wyckoff Avenue, near Troutman Street, Bushwick — Emma Orlow, reporter

Upstate abundance potatoes and paddlefish roe at Foul Witch

My table of four was kind of astonished that a dish that had maybe three or four small potatoes cost $38 at Foul Witch, but it was the one that we were still talking about once the meal was over. What made them so delicious? Upstate abundance potatoes, skin-on, are smashed and dressed in an herb beurre blanc and finished with paddlefish roe. While pricey, the dish is as memorable as one would expect from a designer potato plus butter and umami. (We also ordered a second round of the same dessert, the sake lees cake with honeycomb and clotted cream, but that’s for another week.) 15 Avenue A at Essex Street, East Village — Melissa McCart, editor