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The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week

Mint pizza, coconut pancakes, and more

A flat hard tortilla with ceviche piled high on top and squiggled with massive amounts of green mayo.
The shrimp ceviche tostada at Bosco.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

The amount of excellent food available in New York City is dizzying — even during a pandemic — yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we do come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week — so you can, too.

August 8

Shrimp ceviche tostada at Bosco

Though the origin of ceviche in Mexico is often credited to the Gulf Coast city of Veracruz, the tostada ceviche is most often associated with the Baja Peninsula on the West Coast. A particularly splendid version is found at Bosco in Greenwich Village, a new Mexican cocktail bar whose menu comes from Alan Delgado, formerly of Oxomoco. The shrimp are tossed with pico de gallo in a lime dressing, heaped on a crunchy tostada, and then squirted with more cilantro mayo than you may have thought necessary, making every bite moist and delectable. The ceviche tostada ($14) is almost voluminous enough to make an entire meal. 169 Bleecker Street, at Sullivan Street, Greenwich Village — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

A cast iron pot of soup with rice and strands of egg is surrounded by two dishes of kimchi and a cup of tea.
Gomtang at Naju Gomtang.
Caroline Shin/Eater NY

Gomtang at Naju Gomtang

There are dishes that have been seared into my palate for so long that I’ll always have a craving for them. Gomtang is one of those dishes. It’s what my grandma and mom would make for me every time I’d feel under the weather, and continuing our heritage, it’s what I make for my daughter. I was out when the craving hit, so a grocery run turned into a Naju Gomtang visit, and their gomtang hit the spot: rich and beefy with a broth still steaming in its black ttukbaegi bowl ($17). The clear vermicelli noodles slipped around the nubs of rice, swollen and softened by the soup. With a sprinkle of gochugaru for a spicy red kick, I was like a kid again, slurping away. But this time, with my own daughter doing the same next to me. 156-18 Northern Boulevard, inside the strip mall, Flushing — Caroline Shin, temp. reporter

A hand dangles an iPhone light next to a pepperoni pizza for a photo.
An anchovy pie at Oma Grassa.
Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Battuto pizza at Oma Grassa

Dim lighting and the smell of charred pizza crust were the motivations for this over-the-top photo: Before I had taken my first bite, I knew Oma Grassa would be a contender for best dishes. The corner spot opened in Fort Greene last month, giving this Brooklyn neighborhood a pizza destination that stands out from the display case slice shops and fancy upcharged pie spots nearby. Nope, here pies come out black, bubbly, and paper thin, reminding me of the excellent Ops in Bushwick: Hoist a slice from the tray and you can bet it won’t sag, even when weighed down with tomato sauce and anchovy. Of the three we tried, the Battuto was best, decorated with fennel sausage, parsley, basil, and mint ($22). Mint on pizza? I had my doubts, too, but one bite was enough to turn that unlikely topping into a future craving. 753 Fulton Street, at South Portland Avenue, Fort Greene — Luke Fortney, reporter

Two coconut pancakes with burnt sugar and shredded coconut sit in a brown cardboard plate.
Java palm sugar coconut pancakes at Moon Man.
Nadia Q. Ahmad/Eater NY

Java palm sugar coconut pancake at Moon Man

A visit to the Queens Night Market wouldn’t be complete for me without stopping by the Moon Man stall selling Southeast Asian desserts. The Indonesian coconut pancake with Java palm sugar ($5 each, or three for $12) comes off the griddle warm and fluffy, with a fun contrasting crunch and chew you get from biting into the layer of blowtorched sugar and shredded coconut on top. Given the spot’s name and astronaut logo, it always seems fitting to enjoy this treat here, by the light of the moon and the blue-purple glow of the Hall of Science. 47-01 111th Street, in the Hall of Science parking lot, Corona — Nadia Q. Ahmad, copy editor

An ice cream parlor hosts a line inside that runs around the block.
The exterior of Torico Ice Cream in Jersey City.
Robert Sietsema

Cherry pistachio ice cream at Torico in Jersey City

There’s no better time of year for ice cream and when it comes to Jersey City, Torico is the place to go. A family-run business from the Berrios family for over 50 years, the shop offers ice cream standards as well as seasonal flavors like soursop, jackfruit, lychee, papaya, and avocado as well as tamarind sorbet or coconut sherbet ($6 for two flavors). Sure, it draws lines around the block after dinner on these hot days, but don’t be dismayed: The line moves fast. Besides, it’s fun to people-watch among a blend of Jersey City residents, old and new. 20 Erie Street at First Street, Jersey City — Melissa McCart, temp. editor

August 1

A round beige scallop with a roe sac on a scallop shell dotted with dark brown capers.
Scallop and its roe at Corner Bar.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Scallop and its roe at Corner Bar

No, this isn’t any old scallop you can find at Citarella or at a Riverhead seafood stall at the farmers markets, but a behemoth five-bite scallop, tasting sweetly of the sea. Bathed in brown butter, its roe accompanies it like a butler follows a millionaire. The texture of the egg sac is rich and gooey, and fried capers add the slight bit of crunch that makes this extravagantly priced special seafood offering my dish of the week ($28). And if you haven’t already guessed — Corner Bar is not really a corner bar in the normal sense of the term, implying a sort of humble neighborhood fixture, though it is on a Lower East Side corner. 60 Canal Street, at Allen Street, Lower East Side — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

12 oysters of varying sizes are lined in a circle on top of ice.
A dozen oysters from Morty’s Oyster Stand.
Caroline Shin/EaterNY

Sweet Sound oysters at Morty’s Oyster Stand

Last week’s dozen wasn’t from a dollar-oyster happy hour, and I typically wouldn’t focus on one pure ingredient as a best dish, but I was blown away by the incredible sweetness of the aptly named Sound Sweet oysters ($4 each) from the Long Island Sound. They’re the fruits of North Fork Oyster Company’s labor, which included the re-seeding of once-empty oyster beds and led to the resurgence of oysters along the North Shore of Long Island. At first, I tasted that cold lemony ocean water — nothing exciting just yet — but then I bit into the flesh, and whoa: unmistakable sweetness developed and plumed out. It mixed with the tabasco (required for my oysters) and cocktail sauce, picking up a peppery kick from the horseradish, too. Since this platter was a sampling that also included the small and briny Kumamotos (from the Pacific northwest) and the milder Wellfleets (Massachusetts) and Violet Coves (Moriches Bay, Long Island), I ordered a couple more of the Sound Sweets (at nine o’clock in that circle of oysters above). 2167 Montauk Highway, near Hildreth Lane, Montauk — Caroline Shin, temp. reporter

A burger and fries bask in the light of an iPhone flash photo.
The burger at No. 7 Restaurant.
Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Burger at No. 7 Restaurant

I've been saying it for months: The Prospect Heights stretch of Vanderbilt Avenue needs a win. Though home to worker-owned butcher shops and a few excellent bakeries, this Brooklyn thoroughfare doesn't have much in the way of late-night eating and drinking. Will No. 7 change that? This restaurant with bar vibes uprooted from its longtime home in Fort Greene last summer, reappearring on the corner of Saint Marks Avenue a few weeks ago. I missed the opening announcement, but passed the space while walking home last week and had to do a double-take: What were this many hot young people doing in Prospect Heights after 10 p.m.? Aspiring to join their ranks, I cozied up at a booth a few days later, ordering a can of Taiwan Beer ($5 apiece) and the restaurant’s so-called “giant minimal” cheeseburger. It came out properly cooked and dripping with juices beside a pile of fries, a bargain at $16 and a great first impression for this neighborhood newcomer. 627 Vanderbilt Avenue, at Saint Marks Avenue, Prospect Heights — Luke Fortney, reporter

A sandwich with focacchia, smoked tuna, spread, and radicchio sits on a black plate atop a wooden dining table.
The Lina sandwich at Archestratus.
Nadia Q. Ahmad/Eater NY

Lina sandwich at Archestratus Books + Foods

Go to Archestratus for the cookbook store and grocery, but please stay for the Lina sandwich ($12). Layers of salty smoked tuna, sweet and tangy house spread that includes carrots and raisins, and crisp, slightly bitter radicchio sit between slices of very crunchy focaccia (a texture I did not realize I would enjoy so much in sandwich bread). The cafe seems to put a lot of thought into what greens to incorporate, something that I’ve made a note to reconsider when making sandwiches at home. Radicchio adds a cool zing to the Lina; my friend and I were also pleasantly surprised by the fresh mint as a main ingredient in the Domenico’s Wife chicken sandwich ($12.50). 160 Huron Street, at Manhattan Avenue, Greenpoint — Nadia Q. Ahmad, copy editor

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