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The Fulton Is NYC’s ‘Best Seafood Restaurant’ to Open Since 2017, Wells Writes

Times critic Pete Wells gives Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new restaurant a glowing two stars

Counterclockwise from bottom left: snapper ceviche, white asparagus, longevity noodles, and mussels
Counterclockwise from bottom left: snapper ceviche, white asparagus, longevity noodles, and mussels at the Fulton
Alex Staniloff/Eater

The Fulton — which Jean-Georges Vongerichten recently opened at Pier 17 in the Financial District — is the best seafood restaurant to open in Manhattan since Major Food Group debuted the Pool in 2017, Times critic Pete Wells declares today in a two-star review.

Mega-chef Vongerichten’s waterside restaurant excels at raw fish: Wells highlights dishes like sea trout tartare, served with raw oysters and horseradish that create a “momentary illusion that you’re eating beef,” as well as fluke topped with mint and Sichuan buttons.

As for the rest of the menu, Wells writes:

A separate menu card lets you know that most of the seafood in the main courses can be ordered “simply cooked.” I was never curious enough to try it, being too distracted by the salmon in a cumin-coriander seed crust so fragrant it turns heads; the sea bass and carrots in a life-affirming pool of lemon-turmeric sauce; and the detailed-oriented [sic] fish and crisps, a brick of flounder kept at scalding temperature by a leakproof and supernaturally crunchy buckwheat batter. Served with mashed fresh peas, it could almost pass for English if it didn’t come with saffron aioli.

Wells writes that a few dishes still need some work, namely a “generic” fish stew and the red snapper ceviche. But overall, he argues that the Fulton serves a menu “full of smart, reliably pleasurable food” — in contrast to Vongerichten’s Paris Cafe that opened around the same time at John F. Kennedy Airport, which serves “likeable pizzas and salads” that don’t necessarily impress. Two stars.

The Fulton

89 South Street, Manhattan, NY 10038 (212) 838-1200 Visit Website

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