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Report: 73 Percent of Most Serious NY Restaurant Health Violations Go Unchecked

Plus, food critics dig the changes at Peruvian spot Llamita — and more intel

Food Network & Cooking Channel New York City Wine & Food Festival Presented By Coca-Cola - Dinner with Jean-Georges Vongerichten part of the Bank of America Dinner Series presented by The Wall Street Journal Photo by Robin Marchant/Getty Images for NYCWFF

New York health inspectors are too easy on restaurants, report finds

A state audit shows that New York’s Department of Health food safety inspectors haven’t followed through on hundreds of serious health violations found in restaurants across the state. Between 2014 and 2017, nearly 1,000 significant violations were noted in New York restaurants, yet 73 percent of the violations didn’t result in any enforcement at all. Those violations should have resulted in fines or even closure, according to the audit published by comptroller Thomas DiNapoli, which also found that data was reported incorrectly. State health officials have since agreed to review their policies. The report excludes New York City restaurants, which are inspected by the NYC Health Department.

Food critics dig the new full-service Peruvian dinner at Llamita

Chef Erik Ramirez recently transformed his fast-casual Peruvian restaurant Llamita into a full-service setting — and critics are already checking the place out. New York magazines’s Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite are happy to see ceviche on the new menu, in which the chef expertly uses peanuts, fried wonton skins, and “crispy” squid for added texture in the raw fish dish. The hangar steak, though, doused in a “creamy” blue cheese sauce and accompanied by roast potatoes and broccoli rabe, may just be Llamita’s best new dish, the critics declare. “It’s meat and potatoes with funk and flair, each well-cooked element contributing to a greater whole,” they write.

A ‘gelato burger’ has popped up on the Upper West Side

Spring appears to be here, and with it comes strange warm-weather concoctions like this gelato burger, now starring on the menu of Amorino, an Italian gelato chain at 414 Amsterdam Ave., between 79th and 80th streets. The Instagrammy dessert — the bun of which is made from chocolate and the “patty” is two scoops of gelato — has caused some confusion among diners, who reportedly think it’s an actual burger at first.

Two coming attractions

The Upper West Side is getting a new restaurant called the Boilery Seafood & Grill, opening at 710 Amsterdam Ave., between 94th and 95th streets. A Columbia classic is returning to 2897 Broadway, near 113th Street, but with a reversed name: Wu + Nussbaum, which used to be called Nussbaum + Wu until it closed last summer, is gearing up to open again. The previous version served bagels and sandwiches, but the new iteration promises noodles and dumplings, too, according to a sign.

Nomad’s new Korean hot pot restaurant On serves homey fare, critic says

New Yorker critic Hannah Goldfield swings by the recently opened Korean hot pot restaurant Onstyled as o:n° — and finds the food “comforting and filling.” Here, the soup dish is cooked for diners, and the whole meal is meticulously timed: Within the first 10 minutes, a complimentary dish of “fluffy” chicken and tofu meatballs arrive, and at 20 minutes, the hot pot appears. The soups are “mostly mild” but can be spiced up with a douse of gochujang or Sichuan-chili oil, she writes. They’re still comforting, though, such as one made with bone broth mixed with oxtail, brisket, and whole cloves of garlic, which she calls “homey and pure.”

Bus crashes into Queens bagel shop

A Q18 bus crashed into a bagel shop in Sunnyside early Sunday morning, injuring five people inside the vehicle. The bus was on 58th Street near Woodside Avenue when a car reportedly flew past a red light and hit it, pushing the bus into Bagels Plus at 5720 Woodside Ave. It happened around 5 a.m., when the shop is supposed to open, but on this particular Sunday, the store was opening at 6 a.m. instead. The two employees inside the store were uninjured.


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