Wells took more issue with the space, calling the dining room on the 24th floor of the Equinox Hotel “a group of tables next to the elevator bank.” But the food was “cheerful” and “vibrant,” Wells wrote. Save for a dry chicken dish and an overcooked halibut, the critic praised chef Kyle Knall’s colorful presentation skills, and his ability to stick to Equinox’s “healthy eating” ethos without compromising flavor:
Mr. Knall seems to have tweaked the dials so that every dish has some acidity or juiciness or herbal freshness, and nothing is especially fatty, either, which seems to be the extent of the kitchen’s gestures toward healthy eating. The purple juices of roasted grapes fall over the sweet, scarlet threads of pickled ají dulci peppers and heart-shaped mint leaves that decorate a plate of pan-roasted scallops.
He also liked the marinated razor clams, the duck dumplings, and the lemon curd dessert.
But Wells says the restaurant and the food are at odds with the actual space: “if the restaurant were an office, this would be the team-building area, and nobody would use it.” The music, too, as “dopey enough” for him to not return.
Wells’s review of the food falls mostly in line with Eater NY chief critic Ryan Sutton’s assessment of Electric Lemon, which he described in his two star-review as “a rare place where you can feel that New York magic up high — as long as one ignores the wellness nonsense.” One star.
Electric Lemon debuted in August this year, and is only among a handful of restaurants that have received praise at NYC’s newest neighborhood, which has been criticized for being a playground for the rich.