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Zabar Scion’s Year-Old Bar Undergoes a Big Revamp

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Plus, Joe Coffee has a new roastery — and more intel

A dining room with yellow, curvy banquettes in front, and a bar in the back that has yellow-and-green stripes, plus pale blue and yellow barstools.
Devon’s new look
Rachel Vanni/Devon

A Zabar’s bar gets a revamp

About one year after opening, Devon on the Lower East Side has gotten a big makeover. The cocktail bar and restaurant from Oliver Zabar — grandson of the man who opened iconic Jewish grocery store Zabar’s — now has a new look, a new chef, and a new menu, both in the food and drink departments.

Chef Harry Cummins, who comes from Mercerie in Marseilles, is charged with the menu, where flavors pull from around the world. Dishes include chicken yaki, baby eggplant with sweet miso glaze, Maine crab toast, and a fried chicken entree with Sichuan sauce and pickled jalapeño. Bread still comes from Zabar family outfits like next-door Broome Street Bakery and Eli’s Market on the UES.

Bartender Sean Saunders (Happiest Hour, Slowly Shirley) is still doing drinks, with new options like Cool Hand Cuke (Japanese whisky, ginger, cucumber) and The Man in the Yellow Hat (rye, cinnamon, banana, black walnut).

The space — once quite monochrome — is now splashed with colors. Green banquettes, a yellow-and-green bar, and yellow-colored overhead lighting are now in the space. It’s a big swap for Devon, at 252 Broome St., between Orchard and Ludlow Streets, the first solo project for Oliver Zabar away from his father Eli of the UES Eli’s branded markets and restaurants.

Joe Coffee opens its own roastery

Joe Coffee has opened a big new roastery in Long Island City today, coinciding with a brand revamp for its logo and cafes. The New York coffee company, which Danny Meyer invested in two years ago, now has a 4,000-square-foot roastery, cafe, and “lab” at 40-37 23rd Street. Seating 11, the cafe has all the standard Joe Coffee offerings, plus pastries from Ovenly and Bien Cuit. Training, public education, and cupping events will be held there also.

In other news

Samesa is the first food vendor to close in the Essex Market, six months into business.

— More restaurants are making their own, custom amaro.

— Asian Americans across the country, including in New York, are eating turkey for Thanksgiving that’s been roasted Chinese barbecue-style — an amalgamation of Chinese tastes and American tradition.

Belcampo, the meaty restaurant in Hudson Yards, has put in “Bone Broth” taps, according to a spokesperson. Diners can now get beef and pork, lamb, or poultry broth.

— Chick-fil-A is finally ending donations to groups with anti-LGBTQ attitudes.

—Scott Stringer’s brother allegedly punched a fellow diner at a sushi restaurant on the Upper East Side, saying “You don’t know who you are messing with. I know a lot of people in high places.”

— Lol

Devon

252 Broome Street, Manhattan, NY 10002 (212) 427-3997 Visit Website

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