No edible item is more New Yorky than the breakfast sandwich, made with egg, American cheese, and bacon, sausage, or boiled ham on a kaiser roll — available at nearly every deli and bodega. But this cherished sandwich has been modified by time and contemporary preferences, and now variations can be found, or created. Appearing every Wednesday for the rest of summer and into the fall, this column will ferret out those wayward modifications.
Let’s face it: Perhaps because of its delicious greasiness, a full classic breakfast sandwich containing possibly two eggs, two slices of cheese, and two strips of bacon is quite an undertaking, especially when gobbled at your desk with important papers lying around. It’s happened to me and probably happened to you, that you end up getting grease drippings on everything. There’s the calorie count, too, which may run 600 or so for the version of the sandwich mentioned above (or 400 calories for the more bare bones version of the sandwich).
So, it’s not surprising that smaller streamlined renditions of the New York breakfast sandwich have appeared, ones that don’t leave you bloated with greasy lips. Served at room temp, the so-called uovo brioche ($4.50) at Sullivan Street Bakery — which my colleague Ryan Sutton also admires — begins with a miniature brioche, nicely brushed on the top with egg wash to generate an eye-catching sheen. Between its tiny halves go a dab of scrambled egg, cooked so that the texture is superfine. Standing in for bacon is the notably unfatty fried prosciutto, which delivers an audible crunch and loads of porky — though unsmoky — flavor. This baby is rich, but after eating it you won’t feel stuffed, and maybe you’ll even go to the gym afterwards. 236 Ninth Ave., between 24th and 25th streets, Chelsea
Check out previous installments of this series.