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A Grandfather of NYC French Dining Dies at 97

Plus, that dog-friendly cafe opens — and more intel

Dining review - Kinship
A souffle

Renowned French chef Andre Surmain dies at 97

After running what was long considered one of New York City’s top French restaurants at Lutèce, Andre Surmain has died. The 97-year-old French chef was a bastion of old-guard fine dining, with his restaurant debuting in 1961 with dinner costing $435, in today’s dollars. Though Lutèce closed in 2004 — Surmain left in the early 1970s — Surmain left his mark on the NYC dining world with his disregard for diners’ opinions, strict commitment to traditional French food, and likening for luxury.

East Village dog-friendly cafe opens today — and other openings, coming attractions, and closings.

Cafe Boris & Horton — where dog owners can safely bring their pups to one portion of the space — makes its debut today on Avenue A. Though it’s been called a dog cafe, the cafe itself won’t be providing any animals; one section of it is simply dog-friendly, meaning pet owners can show up without worrying about the Department of Health rules. Over in Bed-Stuy, a new fish restaurant called Shipwreck, where owner Joey Lugo brings in fresh fish every day, has opened. Prepared foods include smoked salmon and freshly fried fish. Long Island City will soon get its own location of popular local noodle chain Xi’an Famous Foods. But in Prospect Heights, 14-year-old Bar Sepia might be closing in March.

Famed Georgia restaurant drops by Olmsted in Brooklyn

Chef Mashama Bailey is stopping by Brooklyn next Monday night to cook up a few dishes from her award-winning Savannah, Georgia restaurant The Grey. Bailey — whose take on Southern fare earned The Grey Eater’s restaurant of the year award in 2017 — will be at Prospect Heights hotspot Olmsted on Monday night, offering her signature dishes alongside the classics of Olmsted. Doors open at 5 p.m. on Monday, February 5th for the collaboration; walk-ins only.

A look at Barbetta, one of the most elegant and oldest restaurants in NYC

The Times does a wonderful deep dive look at Barbetta, a 112-year-old restaurant in Midtown that’s still run by the same family that opened it. The elegant fine dining restaurant with jewelry box decor has more competitors now than it did in the past, but its antique furniture and legendarily hospitable owner Laura Maioglio keep it going. Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones used to visit, and today, actors, politicians, and business people still visit.

Ligaya Mishan reviews African restaurant Serengeti Kitchen

For this week’s Hungry City column in the Times, Ligaya Mishan highlights Serengeti Kitchen, a Harlem restaurant where chef Doughba Caranda-Martin III makes food from Liberia, where he was born. The space is also filled with his art, making it a “beautiful place” to wait for food, she writes. She enjoys dishes like zucchini and bunapi mushroom soup and a roasted guinea hen that’s “half-submerged in a deep, mellow stew of sweet African peppers.” For a look at another roast chicken in NYC, check out this video:

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