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Artsy East Village Noodle Shop Hunan Slurp Nabs Two Stars from the Times

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The Hunanese restaurant slings slippery rice noodles in delicate broths and chile-laced flavors, Pete Wells says

An artistic dining room with blonde wood slats from floor to ceiling and hanging exposed bulb lights
Hunan Slurp
Photo via Hunan Slurp

Times critic Pete Wells dug the chile-laced cuisine of Hunan in his latest restaurant review about East Village Chinese restaurant Hunan Slurp, which he awarded two stars. Chef-owner Chao Wang brings traditional Hunanese fare — influenced by his upbringing in the region’s second-largest city — as well as dishes of his own to the noodle-centric menu.

Specifically, the noodles here are mifen, long, slippery noodles made from pounded rice meant, as the restaurant’s name alludes to, to be slurped. Praising the various mifen dishes, Wells writes:

In the string bean mifen, the noodles weave around a fried egg and a scattering of ground Berkshire pork, stir-fried to a crackle with little rounds of sliced, pickled green beans. There is no slick of chile oil on top, and the pale broth looks harmless enough, but once the soup is stirred together it will take the crease out of a pair of newly pressed trousers.

Wells also highlights the fish fillet mifen, calling it a “master class in the art of broth subtlety.” And the restaurant pays close attention to spice, he notes, with chiles appearing often. “An electrical current of heat crackles through the dim-sum-style chicken feet, cooked until they are falling-off-the-toe tender,” he writes. A cabbage dish delivers “mouth-zapping heat.”

The restaurant opened in May as another entry into East Village’s burgeoning hip Chinese restaurant scene, and New York critic Adam Platt called it one of the “most-accomplished addition[s],” to the neighborhood in his two-star review of the restaurant.

Wang used to be an artist, and aside from its regional cuisine, Hunan Slurp is also defined by striking design, which Wells takes notice of. “Depending on your frame of mind, eating at Hunan Slurp can feel like sitting under a rack of drying noodles or finding yourself inside the belly of a particularly tidy whale,” he writes. Two stars.

Hunan Slurp

112 1st Avenue, Manhattan, NY 10009 (646) 585-9585 Visit Website

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