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Legacy Records’ Cafe Slings Handsome Pastries for Everyday Dining

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Easy Victor Cafe in Hudson Yards serves savory-sweet delights like an everything focaccia and a chocolate croissant

Assorted pastries at Easy Victor Cafe, located inside Legacy Records
Assorted pastries at Easy Victor Cafe, located inside Legacy Records
Ryan Sutton

One of the most thoughtful things an expensive restaurant can do is open up a cafe inside, transforming a space that people might use once a month (or not at all) into a place folks can visit everyday. This is what makes Easy Victor Cafe, a hangout for coffee and pastries, such a nice addition to Legacy Records, Robert Bohr and Ryan Hardy’s Italian restaurant on the southern edge of Hell’s Kitchen. One might not drop by for a $100 per person meal too often, but reading the paper here over a cup of coffee and a pecan could easily become a regular affair.

The way a restaurant fits into a community is of particular interest in this slice of the city. Wary locals, facing rising rents, are watching as the Hudson Yards megaproject erects million dollar condos, fast-casual chains, and expensive restaurants inside a giant mall. The fact that Legacy Records sits inside Henry Hall, a new boutique apartment building where a studio costs a cool $3,500/month, doesn’t help.

A good chocolate croissant, admittedly, won’t solve any problems of urban development, but when combined with a comfortable stool and laptop-friendly counter, it can go a long way in making nearby residents feel like this is a positive addition to the neighborhood.

And man, it is a really good pastry. An in-house bakery on the second floor rolls up plain and chocolate dough to create a handsome marbling effect. The end product is remarkably savory, almost as much as a gougere (the chefs use salted instead of sweet butter). And just when things get too intense, a squirt of chocolate ganache inside reminds you this is still a dessert.

A spread of sweets at Easy Victor Cafe
A spread of sweets at Easy Victor Cafe
Ryan Sutton

The bakers also put out a solid pecan roll. The chopped nuts, firmly bound together by the edible glue of butterscotch, are coarse but soft, acting as a point of contrast to the twirls of crispy croissant dough, which shatter when chomped. And the everything-seasoned focaccia acts a pleasantly squishy alternative to a standard bagel preparation; here it’s worth noting that Hardy’s mix of salt, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, and onion pack a cleaner, clearer flavor profile than this mix normally does elsewhere.

Easy Victor will launch a longer food menu next week, I’m told, with fried egg sandwiches on Japanese milk buns, as well as focaccia, prosciutto, and burrata sandwiches. But for now, it’s a quiet, peaceful place order a pastry and relax for a minutes. The croissant and pecan roll are $5, while the focaccia is $4.50, and I’m rating them a BUY.

Buy, Sell, Hold is a column from Eater New York’s chief critic Ryan Sutton where he looks at a single dish or item and decides whether you should you buy it, sell it (or just don’t try it at all), or hold (give it some time before trying).

Legacy Records

517 West 38th Street, Manhattan, NY 10018 (917) 748-3248 Visit Website