Pete Wells Happily Finds That Ferris ‘Overdelivers’

It’s two stars from the Times for Flatiron New American restaurant Ferris, where critic Pete Wells is charmed equally by the “modest” space, ambitious food, and “bracing” drinks — all components that add up to a place that “overdelivers,” he writes.

On the food front, Wells is mainly a fan of the Japanese-inflected fare from chef Greg Proechel, particularly the vegetables. Okinawa sweet potatoes, roasted beets, and charred broccolini win him over, as does some “exciting” blood sausage:

Mr. Proechel has a keen sense for contrasting flavors, though. He uses red pepper and sticky grilled dates to make what has to be the most exciting blood sausage in town. A chunk of grilled mackerel that any izakaya could be proud of sits in ponzu with — surprise — plums and an egg yolk cooked so that it looks and spreads like lemon curd.

Proechel, who used to man the kitchen at buzzy downtown restaurant Le Turtle, opened Ferris in the Made Hotel last year. His solo project has been picking up new buzz further uptown slowly but surely.

While nothing was quite a miss here, Wells didn’t write as lovingly about the roasted sunchokes or cod with clams and hazelnuts. He ended the review the same way he began: spotlighting the drinks, particularly Jenny Lakin’s wine list. Two stars.

• A Firecracker of a Beef Rib and Other Surprises at Ferris [NYT]