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NYC Pizza Enters ‘Golden Age,’ Expert Says

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Plus, tonight decides the fate of the cabaret law

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Melissa McCart is the editor for Eater New York.

It’s pizza day

The Times touches on the evolution of pizza on today’s opening day of annual Little Italy festival Feast of San Gennaro. The expert in this case is the pizza tour guy, Scott Wiener, who sizes up the New York-style pizza that locals know and love. It’s “all relatively thin crust without being crackery,” with a bit of a risen edge.

But the hegemony of the New York pie is loosening with the introduction of other styles. “We’ve got more pizzerias in the city now than we did 10 years and ago and there’s more diversity in the pizza — they’re more creative and inventive,” he says, citing bar pies, neo-Neapolitan styles, and Roman squares. “We’re just entering a new golden age for pizza.” Here’s his video on how to eat a New York slice.

The fate of the cabaret law

Today is the day Council Member Rafael Espinal will hold a Consumer Affairs Committee hearing on the repeal of NYC’s cabaret law — which only allows dancing in venues that carry a difficult-to-obtain cabaret license. Last month, the committee passed a bill to create an “Office of Nightlife” focused on protecting the industry by doing things like helping navigate city permits. The Bushwick and East New York councilman Espinal introduced it.

10ak for VIPs, again

Owner of 10ak Richie Akiva (Butter, E.Vil, Up & Down) opened the place on Monday — when it’s usually closed — for a crew that included Odell Beckham Jr. of the Giants, who was out Sunday for an ankle injury. Joining him were Kendall Jenner and basketball player Blake Griffin, among others. Akiva was offering a refuge from the Fashion Week hoi polloi, says Page Six.

The Holler opens in Bed-Stuy

Today is the official opening day for The Holler at 348 Franklin Avenue, a speakeasy-like spot with slatted shutters and a hot pink moon at the address instead of actual signage. It’s a new bar in the former One Last Shag space from the trio behind Catfish in Crown Heights. In addition to taps for craft beer, there’s a New Orleans-inspired frozen daiquiri machine, pouring an opening night Creamsicle cocktail. The Holler will be open until 4 a.m.

New lunch, new brunch

Thomas Carter and Ignatio Mattos will be serving Friday lunch at Estela from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. here on out, with plates like Padron peppers with salmon bottarga, as well as a fried blood cake sandwich with onions and miso. Plus, newcomer Air’s Champagne Parlor will start serving brunch this Sunday with new hours from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. In addition to the regular menu, there’s on-brand items like Champagne-cured gravlax with Black Seed bagels and scallion cream cheese. Also available is the not-so-secret caviar sandwich, formerly only for those in-the-know. It’ll be called the Royal, served with fries and a glass of Champagne for $35.

Chick-fil-A do-goodery

Here’s a fine excuse to visit Chick-fil-A: on September 15, all locations in the New York metro area are donating lemonade sales through Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation to fund cancer research for children. The organization is named for a child who lost her battle with the disease. It’s a contrast to Chick-fil-A’s baggage that includes opposition to same-sex marriage.

Speaking of chicken sandwiches

Consider a different chicken sandwich from chef Marc Forgione at American Cut, below: