The Major Food Group’s luxe, mid-century debut in the former Four Seasons space The Grill is one of 12 new restaurants across the country that impressed Eater’s roving critic Bill Addison this year. It’s the only restaurant in New York to make the list.
Addison spends all year touring the country and trying the best of what the U.S. has to offer. Dinner is the move there, he writes, and it’s both “excessive” and “smashing.” The critic explains his choice:
It’s obvious from this list, and lists before it from the last decade-plus, that American restaurants don’t need to be excessively luxurious to delight diners and introduce fresh ideas. But extravagance does have its place in our dining culture, and The Grill represents a modern apex. In its tableside theatrics, but also just by its mere existence, the restaurant is literally an event. I had dozens of meals in cuisines of all styles in New York City over the last year, but for blatant pleasure and cheering hospitality and the national influence I expect it to exert, The Grill undoubtedly earns its place on our Best New Restaurants in America 2017 roster.
The Grill opened in May and quickly became known for its extravagance in the landmarked space. It’s run by chef Mario Carbone. The team’s other Seagram Building restaurant The Pool opened last week, and later this year, they will also have a restaurant called The Lobster Club in the property.