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Sushi Katsuei has long been a popular option for affordable omakase in Park Slope — Times Hungry City columnist Ligaya Mishan called the omakase “one all-star after another” in a 2014 review — and it’s now capitalizing on that success with a second location in the West Village. Taking over the Sushi Soto space, Katsuei is up and running with a $57 sushi omakase, with the goal to always keep it under $60. “I don’t like the prices to be too high because I want people to relax and enjoy,” chef Aung Ko Win told Eater.
Win is behind the 10-seat bar and 26-seat dining room here, serving up his generally edomae-style sushi. Edomae puts the flavor focus squarely on Tokyo fish, without much accoutrement, using techniques such as marinating, steaming, simmering in broth, and steeping in sauces to highlight the flavor of the fish.
Not so traditional in edomae is toppings, but Win does like to add things like shishito paste, ginger, scallion, yuzu, and more. “I don’t want to go outside the box of Japanese ingredients,” he said. “A lot of people use jalapeño, but I say no because it’s not Japanese. So I thought, ‘Okay, maybe shishito instead,’ and I made a shishito paste, and a lot of people love it.”
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The prices over in Manhattan are slightly higher than in Park Slope — about $10 per omakase — with three omakase options: a $57 sushi omakase with nine pieces of nigiri and a toro scallion hand roll; an $87 sashimi and sushi omakase with five kinds of sashimi, eight pieces of nigiri, and a toro scallion hand roll; and a $24 lunch omakase with six pieces of sushi. Should you want to further ball out, there’s an open omakase where Win will serve you until you’re full, or until you max out a set budget. Drinks are sake, beer, and sparkling wine.
Win opted for a West Village location, since he thinks the vibe and energy in the neighborhood is similar to Park Slope. This outpost has a maple wood bar in its very simple, light wood-filled interior.
Sushi Katsuei is now open at 357 6th Ave. on Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. with lunch on Saturday from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m.
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