Angie Mar is reopening The Beatrice Inn this evening as the restaurant's chef/owner. Mar closed The Beatrice Inn last month to make some changes after buying the restaurant from Graydon Carter. The chef tells Eater: "It’s not every day the opportunity comes along to own a piece of New York history." She’s made only minor changes and Mar promises she hasn’t lost sight of her love of meat and wild game.
Over the last month, Mar spent time working with her kitchen crew, taking a "somm’s approach" to the menu. "We look at meat like you would grapes," she explains. "Where does the beef come from? How old? What did it eat?" New to the menu: branzino en croute with rosemary and lemon, plus a Long Island duck, served whole and flambéed table side. The latter is a tribute to Mar’s Chinese-American roots. Fans of Mar’s previous menu will still find the dry-aged and grass-fed burgers, as well as whiskey-aged steak.
The history of The Beatrice Inn spans nearly a century. It operated as a speakeasy in the 1920s, and the backdoor that employees and customers used to escape from police is still in use. In the 1950s, Elsie and Ubaldo Cardia turned the West 12th Street space into a neighborhood Italian restaurant. Before Carter and his business partners bought the space in 2013, it was a wildly popular nightclub for celebrities, fashion designers, and New York socialites.
"This is the history that sold me on the space almost three years ago," Mar says. "I hear amazing stories of some of the great people on Broadway, dancing on tables after finishing their veal bolognese; the Olsen twins at ‘Bea,’ the cool, gritty New York club." Minor changes have been made to the space. Diners might notice a new light instillation, added artwork, and changed backdrops. "I want it to feel like you are in New York," says Mar.
The latest iteration of The Beatrice Inn opens for dinner at 5:00 p.m. The kitchen will now be open until midnight, daily. Be sure to let us know what you think if you stop by.