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Abraço Jumps Across the Street, Ari Taymor Pops Up at Café Henrie, and More Intel

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Adam Platt loves Le Coucou, plus more news and gossip from around NYC

The dining room of a chic cafe in Nolita
[Black Seed Bagels in Nolita]
[Daniel Krieger]

East Village coffee shoop favorite Abraço moved across the street to the old Krystal’s Cafe 81 space at the end of last week. The new cafe at 81 East Seventh Street is much larger than the other one, and owners Jamie McCormick and Elizabeth Quijada plan to introduce an expanded food menu soon. EV Grieve notes that the duo got approval for a beer and wine license as well. No word yet on what will happen to the tiny original Abraço storefront, but the space was recently cleared out.

New York Critic Adam Platt awards three stars to Le Coucou, the new Soho restaurant from Stephen Starr and Daniel Rose: "Classic country delicacies like veal tongue are here topped in high gourmet style, with crème fraîche and dabs of Osetra caviar, and if you inquire about the tripe appetizer, your impeccably dressed (and trained) server may intone, like mine did, that this tripe is sourced not from the stomach lining of standard-issue pigs or cows but from pampered herds of America’s version of Kobe beef."

If you’ve ever entertained the thought of investing in a New York restaurant, please check out Gary Sernovitz’s New Yorker essay "The Thrill of Losing Money," about an unnamed, 70-seat Noho establishment that opened in 2010. Sernovitz writes:

I’ve come to conclude that the restaurants New York needs are doomed, financially, to fail. That’s because amateur capital backed by magical thinking and a desire for fun distorts the economics for everyone. New restaurants, with too-easy access to financing from people like me, invest too much in design, tableware, food, and service, driving up every customer’s expectations of every restaurant in a cyclone of unprofitability.

Please share any guesses as to which restaurant he’s writing about in the comments. (Eater’s totally unconfirmed guesses: either Forcella Bowery or Hecho en Dumbo.)

Ari Taymor, the chef behind Los Angeles critical darling Alma, is cooking at Café Henrie on the Lower East Side for 10 nights this month:

Nyc we coming Sept 13-17 and 20-24

A photo posted by @aritaymor on

The Post notes that Café Henrie will only accept walk-ins for these dinners.

Carnegie Deli is now offering a comically large triple-decker "Fashion Sandwich" that’s free for professional models if they finish the whole thing.

Rue La Rue, New York’s first-ever Golden Girls-themed cafe, is still under construction in Washington Heights. Owner Michael La Rue shared this photo last week:

A mug with Rue McClanahan's face on it [Facebook]

Gothamist explains that La Rue was a friend of Rue McClanahan and he inherited her personal belongings when the actress passed away in 2010. La Rue also shared a photo of an Emmy Award with the note: "We wish we could announce an opening date, but we honestly do not know when Rue's café will be completed. What we do know is that the case for her Emmy Award has arrived and it is pretty darn cool, right?"

Tom Gialamboukis, the owner of The Greek in Tribeca, is planning another restaurant at 412 Greenwich Street. This one will also serve Greek food.

— Inexpensive Chinatown staple Great NY Noodletown returned from its one week break on Saturday.

— Tables for Two critic Becky Cooper visits a pair of Garment District lunch counters this week: Acurio Café and El Saborosa. Here’s the critic on the latter: "The pork-chop frisbees and cartilaginous ribs are unfortunate missteps, but the stewed beef and the oxtail are tender and tomato-rich. ‘Everyone loves the baked chicken,’ Elizabeth, the cashier, says, and everyone’s right. It’s as moist as if it were braised, but the skin is crispy from the slow roasting."

A sushi chef at Ichiban in Oakdale, Long Island was arrested and charged with assault after he got into a knife fight with another kitchen worker. The injuries were not life-threatening, and a manager tells the Post: "I don’t know what happened, but everything is OK."

The owners of Kati Roll want to keep their forthcoming East Village location open till 2 a.m. Sunday through Thursday, and till 5 a.m. on Friday and Saturday. The team is applying for a beer and wine license in the old Stage Restaurant space.

— And finally, here’s a look at how the babka is made at Breads Bakery:

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