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Reviews for Tapestry and Covina, Plus Gael Greene Looks Back on the Four Seasons

Ryan Sutton gives two stars to Midown's ritzy Indian Accent, and Robert Sietsema files on a Rangoon NoodleLab pop-up. Here's a roundup of the rest of the week's big reviews

Tapestry
Nick Solares

Adam Platt has only positive opinions about Hao Noodle and Tea by Madam Zhu’s Kitchen. It’s clear that the New York critic is a big fan of the one-month-old restaurant: "The crêpe-quality scallion pancakes and soft, dome-shaped fried rice are as different from your everyday, boilerplate carryout variety as a Beijing cheeseburger is from the real thing. Even the desserts, that eternal black hole in China’s grand culinary cosmos, have their charms, in particular the smooth, not-too-cloying taro soup, which is sweetened with red beans and little soap-colored chunks of boiled taro, and slips down the back of the throat in a most authentically pleasing way." Platt gives the restaurant three out of five stars.

Zachary Feldman finds plenty to recommend at Suvir Saran's Tapestry in Greenwich Village: "I'd order the fritto misto again in a heartbeat. The battered and browned calamari, shrimp, and lemon slices are coated in rice flour and cornmeal and trimmed with earthy aromatics like flash-fried curry leaves and roasted black garlic. Mint and pickled onions punch up an artistic sea bass ceviche (layered inside a ring of cucumber); the cilantro- and lime-juice-cured seafood contrasts nicely with creamy avocado. And tender duck confit served on a cornmeal sope is a rich foil for yogurt crema and a fresh chopped salad."

Photo by Nick Solares

Brazilian model-turned-chef Carlos Varella may be new to cooking, but Ligaya Mishan thinks the lack of experience doesn’t show in his food. Here is the critic on one of here favorites at Beach Bistro 96: "Tapioca flour likewise lends stretch to pão de queijo, Brazilian cousins to French gougères, rich with eggs and Parmesan beaten into the dough. The ones here are among the best I’ve had, barely there puffs like held breaths, with stray volcanic fissures and an escalation of texture, from thin crispy shell to implosion."

Gael Greene bids adieu to the legendary Four Seasons, a restaurant she has been dining at for over five decades. Greene explains how it felt each time she visited: "I’m always anxious when I walk into the Four Seasons. I don’t want to see frayed carpets or tarnished service plates. I want it to be fresh and wonderful. It’s the same feeling I get having lunch with an aging beau from college days. Or the naughty boy I adored when he was 30 and I was a disco dancing queen at 43. I want him to look exactly the same. If you’re old enough, you’ll know what I mean. "

Many of the pastas are terrific, and the fry bread at Covina is a must, but Tables for Two writer Jiayang Fan is patricularly enamored with the desserts: "Even if you’re full, order at least two desserts: the date cake and the chocolate budino. The delicious budino arrives in a small orange Mason jar with a cloud of cream. It takes a few bites to land the crunch of cocoa nibs, and something vaguely savory: a shockingly pleasant yet unplaceable umami that sends you back to hunt for more. It’s the caramel, you guess. ‘The lime zest?’ the waiter ventures. This is the best kind of ‘cheffiness,’ in which the secrets are tucked away: not to be told but tasted."

Photo by Nick Solares

Claus Meyer’s  Danish Dogs stand in Grand Central Terminal serves New York City’s best new dogs, according to Steve Cuozzo. The Post critic notes that the artisanal franks have dethroned the hotdogs at the NoMad, as well as Nathan’s Famous. He writes: "Skinnier than your standard New York dog, Meyer’s marvelous frankfurters are intoxicatingly flavorful. They’re served on plump organic potato buns from his Meyers Bageri in Williambsburg, Brooklyn, and topped with a cornucopia of rich, house-made sauces and accoutrements, such as crunchy cabbage and puffed pork chips. The kaleidoscopic combinations make for tactile fun that complements the flavor surprises."

The Blogs: Goodies First pays a visit to Sauvage in Greenpoint.

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