— David Chang breaks down his "unified theory of deliciousness" in the pages of Wired. The Momofuku empire builder is always looking for the flavor equivalent of "strange loops," which are moments when something "shifts your point of view." Here’s how it applies to food, according to Chang:
When you eat something amazing, you don’t just respond to the dish in front of you; you are almost always transported back to another moment in your life. It’s like that scene in Ratatouille when the critic eats a fancy version of the titular dish and gets whisked back to the elemental version of his childhood. The easiest way to accomplish this is just to cook something that people have eaten a million times. But it’s much more powerful to evoke those taste memories while cooking something that seems unfamiliar—to hold those base patterns constant while completely changing the context.
That was the goal with Nishi's ceci e pepe — a riff on cacio e pepe — and the chicken and dumplings (which are no longer on the menu). Chang also notes that he regrets calling the dish ceci e pepe because it’s "too explicit." The most recent Nishi menu, by the way, now lists this dish as "butter noodle."
— Michelin star recipient Shaun Hergatt is going to be the chef at a private restaurant for residents of the 96-story condo tower at 432 Park Avenue. His vegetable-focused Midtown restaurant Juni closed earlier this year.
— Serge Becker just expanded his Jamaican hit Miss Lily’s to Dubai. The restaurant opened on the fifth floor of the Dubai Sheraton Grand Hotel yesterday. The menu from chef Adam Schop includes popular dishes from the two New York locations as well as new items, like pimento & tamarind glazed ribs, and chili king crab. Serge helped design the interiors.
— Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer — the chefs behind Toro — just opened a new Boston restaurant called Little Donkey. The menu has farro kimchi fried rice, Istanbul-inspired meat ravioli, and a dry-aged beef burger with onion soup mayo and foie gras.
— Dahlia’s, the Second Avenue Mexican restaurant that got its liquor license suspended after the owners hosted a teen cocktail party, is being replace by a salad shop called 100 Percent Healthy Blend.
— The owners of Astoria favorite Butcher Bar are planning a pizzeria in the space next door to the restaurant at 37-10 30th Avenue. No word yet on when it will open.
— Follia in Gramercy is moving down the block to the former Mumbles space on the corner of Third Avenue and East 17th Street. Work is nearly complete on the new iteration of the restaurant, which will offer an expanded menu that will include pizzas.
— Hot burger tip: At Emily in Clinton Hill, Matt Hyland serves around 25 orders of his popular Emmy Burger per night. But during Sunday lunch, the chef has an unlimited number.
— And finally, here’s a look at the tortilla machine at Tortilleria Chinantla in East Williamsburg: