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Reviews for Le Coq Rico, Tapestry, Bar Omar, Dawa’s, and More

Ryan Sutton deems La Sirena worthy of one star. Here's a roundup of the rest of this week's big reviews: 

The eggs are a perfect start, and the desserts are inspired, but for Pete Wells, the chickens at Le Coq Rico are particularly stunning: "The menu suggested that one bird would feed up to four people. We nearly demolished twice as many, along with a macaroni gratin and a bundle of stout, dark fries that we dunked into a small pitcher of jus. After we were too full to go on, we noticed an untouched chicken leg. One of my guests ate that, too, down to the bone. True, he did it on a bet. But I suspect he would have done it for nothing." As mentioned yesterday, Wells give the restaurant two stars.

Photo via Le Coq Rico

It may not be perfect, but Ligaya Mishan is still a fan of the Chino-Latino fare at Caridad China in Williamsburg. Here is the critic on some of the Latin dishes: "Maduros, slanting slabs of ripe plantains gone weak on the stove, bronze with notches of black, shining with their own sweated sugars; and tostones, green plantains fried, smashed flat and fried again, snapping under the teeth and growing chewier a few bites in. Also labeled tostones on the menu are mofonguitos, plantains mashed with garlic, molded with the end of a pestle into flaring cups and fried into tiny savory pie crusts, best filled with avocado and a loose, sharply vinegary heap of tomatoes, onions and green peppers."

Gael Greene may be an old friend of Tapestry chef Suvir Saran, but that isn’t why the critic is singing the West Village restaurant’s praises. In the end, it’s the chef's cooking that will have her returning: "It won’t be just affection for Suvir that brings me back. I’m quite taken with his invention." Here’s Greene on one of her favorites: "I’m a fool for the $15 chicken and goose liver pate, too. It comes in a canning jar under sauternes-champagne-pink peppercorn jelly, studded with slivers of kumquat. And there is more than enough thick, buttered toast. Under cover of intense conversation across our table, I confess to consuming more than my share."

Photo by Nick Solares

Tables for Two writer Becky Cooper likes everything about Bar Omar, from the food to the way it makes her feel: "An ideal meal starts with the bastilla, pulled chicken and almonds jammed intobrik dough and fried until crispy, like a giant square spring roll. It’s topped with a thick layer of confectioner’s sugar, a touch that works so well you may recklessly wonder why more appetizers aren’t frosted. For the main dishes, the bistro basics, especially the steak au poivre, are dependably good, and the couscous is filling. But the tagine is the showstopper."

Zachary Feldman digs the cooking from the father-daughter duo at Dawa’s in Woodside. Here are some of his favorites: "Bhuti's other dishes are equally impressive. For $11, she cooks a mean double-stacked fried-chicken sandwich that boasts a crisp crust layered with lettuce, tomato, jalapeño aioli, and pickled onions. (It comes with flawless potato chips piled high in a terra-cotta pot.) Then there are the $10 seared wild cod tacos, which forgo Baja-style batter and rely on red cabbage slaw and, surprisingly, asparagus for crunch. The fish is flaky and sweet and airily topped with a showering of salty queso fresco."

The Blogs: Goodies First hits up Le Coq Rico, Ivan Ramen, and others.