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Reviews for Indian Accent, Mimi, Cafe Altro Paradiso, and More

Here's a roundup of this week's big reviews:

The bar at Indian Accent with gold lighting
Indian Accent
Nick Solares

The kolhapuri chicken is uninspired, and the fried shiso leaves are disappointing, but Pete Wells still sings the praises of Manish Mehrotra's Indian Accent. The Times critic is pleased to find a number of surprises at the Midtown restaurant, including the dessert: "The fun of the dessert is in the way these crystallized toppings transform the unsweetened saffron milk once everything meets inside your mouth. It’s the kind of happy collision that few restaurants in town can deliver as well as Indian Accent." As mentioned yesterday, Pete Wells gives Indian Accent two stars.

Adam Platt is very pleasantly surprised by his meals at Mimi in the West Village: "I turned to one of my guests and muttered, with my mouth half-full and only semi-­intelligibly, a phrase roughly translatable to 'So where the hell has this place been all my life?!'" Of the dessert selection, Platt adds: "But the star of this unexpectedly dazzling show is the baba au rhum, which is served with clouds of freshly whipped cream on its soft, egg-colored top and finished with a tot of rum poured, with proper ceremony, tableside." Three out of five stars.

After three visits to Indian Accent, Gael Greene is incredibly impressed by Manish Mehrotra and Vivek Rana's kitchen: "The dishes are often beautiful as they arrive on ceramic plates, and the spicing is familiar, but most everything we taste is unexpected and delicious." She adds: "Even more delicious is the astonishingly lush and ripe raw mango delivered on its own saucer. It’s nothing like any mango I’ve ever brought home from my now bankrupt Fairway."

Photo by Nick Solares

Ligaya Mishan finds that the King of Falafel in Astoria is worthy of its name: "It is delicious, whether eaten alone or anointed with tahini sauce, for which Mr. Zeideia imports a Lebanese paste made with sesame seeds harvested in Ethiopia ("the best in the world"). Or, better yet, folded inside a house-made pita and crowded with a small fury of pickled cucumbers."

On the heels of the news of its imminent move, Steve Cuozzo files on Jean-Georges' Spice Market: "Shrugging off cackles from my too-picky pals, I unabashedly go about once a month. On a recent night, ultracrisp spiced papadums with kasundi (tomato chutney) for dipping cued pleasures to come. Black pepper shrimp and salads, as crisp as ABC Kitchen’s, thrilled." He adds: "After all these years, Spice Market’s menu could have devolved into a swamp of sugar and cornstarch, but instead it’s remained consistently true to its origins."

Tables for Two writer Shuana Lyon visits Grand Central-adjacent UrbanSpace Vanderbilt, sampling vendors like Maiden Lane, Kuro-Obi, Mimi's Hummus, and Hard Times Sundaes: "Andrew Zurica attracted notice for his impeccable fast-food-style gems slung in a truck stationed in the Kings Plaza parking lot. It’s fun to watch the line cook chuck a ball of meat onto the grill and pound it with a handled weight, pressing it down to form perfectly salty-crispy bits all around the edges of the patty. Covered with American cheese, popped onto a Martin’s potato bun, it’s even more fun to eat. Follow it up with buttermilk-honey-blueberry ice cream from OddFellows, and you’re good to go."

There are a few misses, but Zachary Feldman is celebrating Ignacio Mattos' return to Italian cooking at Cafe Altro Paradiso: "Desserts are stylish and austere: Choose from textbook tiramisu, panna cotta sauced with amarena cherries, and dense gelato — though nothing defines 'simple pleasure' quite like wedges of chocolate-walnut torte or rhubarb crostata, the latter a potent slice combining jewel-red stalks with a just-burnt-enough crust. They're the Italian-pastry equivalent of a mic drop."

Photo by Khushbu Shah

The Blogs: Restaurant Girl pays a visit to Momosan Ramen, the Pink Pig tries the other slice at Artichoke Pizza, and Joe DiStefano compares fried chicken sandwiches.

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