Pastry Pete Gives Two Sparklers to Eli Kulp & Ellen Yin's High Street on Hudson

The pastries and breakfast sandwiches are not the only reasons to head to Eli Kulp and Ellen Yin's High Street on Hudson, according to Pete Wells. The Times critic is a big fan of the dinner fare as well:

Halfway down the menu you come to the pastas. Do not, for any reason short of an allergy, ignore the bucatini with squid and mussels. Mr. Kulp, who was chef de cuisine at Torrisi Italian Specialties before he moved to Philadelphia, knows what he is doing in the pasta department. The bucatini are flavored with seaweed, a terrific idea, and the plate is finished with lobster bottarga shaved into rose-colored petals, an even more terrific idea. It may be the finest use of lobster coral anybody has come up with.

Wells thinks that some of the sandwiches on the lunch menu miss the mark. But overall, he appreciates "the high level of intelligence the kitchen applies to everything it does from morning through evening." Deuce.