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Reviews for Lilia, High Street on Hudson, Salvation Burger, and More

Ryan Sutton awards two stars to the all-day fare at High Street on Hudson, and Robert Sietsema gives three stars to Thai street food. Here's a roundup of the rest of this week's big reviews:

Nick Solares

— As noted yesterday, Pete Wells is very pleased chef Missy Robbins has returned to cooking pasta. Here's the Times critic on one of his favorite non-carbohydrate dishes at Lilia: "One night, there was a quietly smoky chicken leg under spicy olives mashed with capers and brightened with mint leaves. There were thin stems of broccoli rabe, too, tasting unusually sweet against the olives. You could eat this once a week, and it would not stop tasting new." Three stars.

— The service is inconsistent, and the burgers don't come with fries, but Tejal Rao does enjoy Salvation Burger's namesake item: "Sometimes it comes with only a little smoky, stinky blue cheese dripping with butter and grilled mushrooms; sometimes caramelized onions accompany. Either way, it's delicious—and in direct competition with Minetta's. This is not the sort of burger that disappears in a minute or two. It's the kind you must work at slowly and messily, the kind you daydream about later, when you’re supposed to be doing other things." One star.

— For Adam Platt, High Street on Hudson wins from breakfast to dinner: "I counted five reasons for visiting, beginning at breakfast time, when the kitchen rolls out bagels, bialys, and a variety of breakfast sandwiches that look like they’ve been constructed by highly trained forager cooks at some ethereal lumberjack camp. There are lunchtime sandwiches, too, and a predictably stout weekend brunch, a full-time bakery, and if high-minded barnyard fare is your thing, you’ll find it all on the dinner menu." Platt adds: "To experience the full range of this discreetly ambitious restaurant, the time to visit is dinner." Three out of five stars.

Photo by Daniel Krieger

— The dessert, poultry, and sides are delicious, but Gael Greene's favorite thing at Le Coq Rico is the free salad: "A toss of perfectly-dressed greens comes free alongside the bird. I’m not sure you’ll ever trust me again if I say that was the dish I loved most that night. Yes, more than the very good fries, more than the rhubarb soufflé – the thrilling first rhubarb of spring for me. The house-baked baguette is exceptional too. We manage to put away two baskets’ worth while waiting for our bird."

— The Post's Steve Cuozzo has very few positive things to say about 00 + Co., the new plant-based pizza restaurant from Matthew Kenney: "Superiority Burger and other trendy spots have vegan-ized 'beef' with a 50-50 success rate. Matthew Kenney’s new 'plant-based' pizza joint 00 + Co is more consistent: 4 dishes out of 5 are duds." Cuozzo adds: "A few salads worked well. But while I’d never order pasta at Ray’s, I’d take it over 00’s lumpy, sludgy and zero-flavor sweet potato cavatelli. If this is 'plant-based,' I’m switching to boil-in-bag."

At The Cecil in Harlem, Nicolas Niarcos of Tables for Two is pleases to see not everything has changed: "A recent revision to Johnson’s menu saw the end of well-loved dishes such as his fried guinea hen. An excellent collard-green salad, which melds the softness of red adzuki beans with the crumble of candied cashews, thankfully remains. Along with braised goat dumplings, it is the best way to start a meal."

— Zachary Feldman is a fan of the offerings at High Street on Hudson, from morning to evening. Here's Feldman on Kulp's envelope-pushing pastas: "There are sunflower seeds cooked like risotto; tubes of paccheri served with buffalo meat sauce, watercress, and fresh Cloumage cheese; and seaweed-infused bucatini clarified by briny mussels, squid, and lobster roe bottarga."

Photo by Daniel Krieger

The Blogs: Restaurant Girls files on Indian Accent, the Food Doc visits Cafe Altro Paradiso, and Joe DiStefano share his thoughts on Peter Lo's Tangra Masala.