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Pete Wells Gives One Star to Pizza Moto's Standalone Restaurant

The servers are smiling and professional.

Pizza Moto/Instagram

Pete Wells is a fan of the brick-oven pizzas at Pizza Moto @ John Grace Bakery, the first standalone restaurant for the mobile pizzeria. Straddling the border between Red Hook and Carroll Gardens, Wells thinks Pizza Moto is a fine addition to the Brooklyn-Neapolitan scene dominated by Roberta's and Franny's. The critic digs many of the dishes coming from David Sclarow's kitchen:

He has an imaginative bunch of appetizers that aren’t bound by the conventions of pizzerias or even Italian restaurants. Most are pretty good, but there’s more joy in the pizzas, which go well beyond the limited varieties of single-serving pies that sustain the outdoor operation.

Those are without a doubt the best brick-oven pizzas a New Yorker can find in a schoolyard or park. But the pies at the new restaurant don’t need any such qualification. Despite minor variability, the pies coming out of the old bakery are already among the top tier of New York brick-oven pizzas.

Pete has one specific pie recommendation:

The clam pie is something like a flat clam chowder: It’s topped with sliced potatoes and profoundly smoky bacon. But what makes it hard to put down is the flavor of clams cooked in cream and white wine that suffuses the whole thing.

When ordering drinks, Wells finds the cocktails and domestic beers to be far more reliable than wine. He gives Pizza Moto one star.

Pizza Moto @ John Grace Bakery

338 Hamilton Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11231, USA

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