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Wells and Platt Love Sadelle's Pastries, But Dinner Needs Work

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Wells thought dinner isn't worked out, while Platt felt like MFG had run out of ideas.

Nick Solares

Two of the city's major critics aren't hip to Sadelle's dinner. Both Pete Wells and Adam Platt take a look at Major Food Group's bakery and restaurant, and while both think Melissa Weller's pastries are a hit, the reviewers find dinner — and several lunchtime savory dishes — a bit underwhelming.

The Times critic enjoys the theater of Sadelle's during the daytime, with its white jacket-wearing servers, caged bakers, and overpriced salmon towers. "It's showy and silly, but it's great," Wells writes. Weller's bagels are "worthwhile," and her sticky bun is "phenomenal." But the savory dishes at Sadelle's can be hit or miss, Wells writes.

[The] kitschy daytime clamor works, while Sadelle’s stab at evening elegance hasn’t come together yet. Open since September, Sadelle’s is the first restaurant from the Major Food Group that doesn’t feel completely worked out.

...

It’s as if Ms. Weller’s partners don’t quite realize what comes out of her ovens is more distinctive and memorable than what comes out of Deegan McClung’s savory kitchen, and more consistently delicious, too.

Wells also received disorderly service, something that can be overlooked at breakfast but not for dinner, he writes. He gives Sadelle's one star.

Platt, the New York critic, similarly enjoys the pastries and certain breakfast items, like the salmon Benedict, salmon salad, and an egg sandwich. Other dishes fall flat, including a salmon and lox scramble, tomato soup, and steak tartare. But he is not as taken by the restaurant as a whole:

Style is one of the Major Food Group’s strongest calling cards, of course, but now that they’ve opened seven restaurants in five years (not counting the proliferating outlets of Parm and Carbone), the feeling you get here, especially at dinnertime, is that they’re running out of good ideas.

He gives the restaurant one star for baked goods and breakfast, and no stars for everything else.

Sadelle's

463 West Broadway, Manhattan, NY 10012 (212) 776-4926 Visit Website

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