— Steve Cuozzo is not a fan of the 14-course menu that teen chef Flynn McGarry is serving at his NYC pop-up Eureka. The Post critic writes that it's "a rather ridiculous rip-off, especially if you add $80 to the $160 meal cost for the worst wine pairings ever." Cuozzo also notes: "McGarry’s handlers, which include a Hollywood agent, have thrust him into the spotlight like a circus animal just learning to walk — a strategy that will not help a career that has yet to actually exist." The kid can cook some beets, though.
— Sam Mason, Mohan Kumar and Holiday Kumar are overhauling the menu at their East Village location of their ice cream hit Oddfellows. Starting this weekend, the shop will serve ice cream sandwiches, plus treats made with warm brioche buns and ice cream called "Odd Pockets." Guests will be able to select the components of their own ice cream sandwiches, but the menu will also include a few "signatures." Scoops and cones will also still be available. The store is now called "Oddfellows Ice Cream Sandwich Shop."
— Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema files his impressions on a recent 10 day eating and shopping trip to NYC — which included a visit to Flushing with his colleague and "distant relation" Robert Sietsema. Tom had some great meals along with a few duds. Here's the critic on those disappointments:
New Yorkers tend to get pretty excited about even routine Mexican food, perhaps because Mexican isn’t one of the market’s many strengths. The raves lavished on Cosme, a current darling in the Flatiron District, wouldn’t apply to my dinner there and left my companions scratching their heads, as well. And a dinner at Peter Luger Steak House in Brooklyn suggested the icon had seen better days. Everything about the place felt tired, including a waiter who seemed to be sleepwalking and a porterhouse missing its trademark mineral tang. Maybe you have to be a native to love the place.
In Brooklyn, Sietsema digs Shalom Japan, Marlow & Sons, and Hometown Bar-B-Que.
— Pretty people love eating vegan food, especially in California. But the diet/lifestyle is popular in NYC too, and restaurants like Avant Garden, By Chloe, Superiority Burger, and The Butcher's Daughter have plenty of vegan options. Dirty Candy's Amanda Cohen, who is not a vegan, points out: "It’s a big commitment to get that glow...It’s not cheap. It’s not for the peasants."
— Although some people are complaining about the food and the service at Jonathan Waxman's new Central Park South restaurant, Franktastic is a fan:
GREAT meal at J. Waxman's new Jams (NYC). Word to wise: get calamari app., the amazing fries and do not skip dessert.— Frank Bruni (@FrankBruni) September 30, 2015
— Livanos Restaurant Group is opening a new project in the Durst Organization’s VIA 57 West development over on 12th Avenue. No word yet on what type of cuisine it will serve or what it will be called, but the restaurant will inhabit a 7,000-square-foot ground floor space in the building's southeast corner. Livanos currently operates six restaurants across the city including Molyvos and Oceana.
— The team from Paris's acclaimed Le Chateaubriand will be cooking at Contra on October 9 and 10. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org to get a reservation:
— Mario Batali, April Bloomfield, Seamus Mullen, Johnny Iuzzini, and a bunch of other famous chefs are participating in a new food and music festival in Jamaica this November called Nyamjam. Tickets for the dinners are now available online.
— And finally, here is how to make eggs like Wylie Dufresne: