After a couple of weeks of slumming it in bars and burger joints Pete Wells is back among the white tablecloths at Gabriel Kreuther's eponymous restaurant. And he is happy to be there. Wells is generally impressed by the technique and the execution of the four-course menu, noting its similarities to what the Alsatian chef was doing at The Modern. He gives Kreuther's new venture three stars — the same score he gave the chef at The Modern shortly before his departure.
While Wells admits that the formal style of dining is currently "about as fashionable as acid-washed jeans" he appreciates the skill and technique at work here, even though he finds a few of the dishes a little too busy. Also, the room is a trifle "frantic," and tableware "crazily gaudy." But the wine list is only "slightly less impressive" than that of the The Modern and Wells is enamored with both the breads and desserts from pastry chef Marc Aumont. Also, the critic claims that the "greatest liverwurst in the five boroughs" is to be found at the bar.