This week, Ryan Sutton takes on the many, many offerings at Roberta's Bakery, which he says "Deserves to become our next Shake Shake or Parm. It deserves to expand." Robert Sietsema is off the review beat this week. Here's where other critics are dining around town:
Pete Wells is wowed by the vegetables and many of the dishes at Untitled, but finds some things still need work: "You can tell that the rotisserie chicken had great flavor down to its core before it took its turn on the spit. If you're not sure, try the fried chicken....If every dish were this good, Untitled might rank up there with Gramercy Tavern...But the kitchen isn't there yet." Two stars.
Adam Platt has lukewarm feelings about the setup of George Mendes' Lupulo, but thoroughly enjoys the restaurant's dishes, like: "Golden fried bacalhau croquettes, which we dutifully dipped in a pot of mayonnaise folded with properly fiery piri piri sauce, and a small platter of pearly, grape-size roasted snails...which looked and tasted like they'd been beamed in from some dim, smoky bar along Portugal's rocky Atlantic coast." Two stars.
Gael Greene leaves the new Tempura Matsui a bit disappointed:"Inch cuts of asparagus [tempura] strike me as meager. My pal burns her mouth on the cherry tomato and warns me to let my mine sit a bit. Nice explosion.There is an excellent layered clump of maitake mushroom. But why not more vegetables?"
The Elsewhere: Tables for Two is impressed with the food at Shuko, even if diners can't always hear the chef's description of what's on their plates over Drake or Jay Z. Ligaya Mishan really digs the perfectly bronzed chickens at the mostly takeout spot Chicks To Go in the Rockaways. And Paul Schultz writes that six years in, the food at Anella in Greenpoint is still expertly made.
The Blogs: Chris Stang is most impressed at the modern Korean restaurant Oiji, giving it an 8.6. The Pink Pig stops by Hawaiian inspired newcomer Noreetuh and finds "smartly run restaurant, with very good food, and ridiculously good wine." The Village Voice is taken with the New Orleans-inspired space and food at Loosie's Kitchen and Loosie Rouge in Williamsburg.