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Reviews for Chevalier, Grand Army, Mamo, Rose's, and More

Pete Wells thinks Chevalier still needs to find itself, Michael Kaminer is smitten with Grand Army, and more from the critics.

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This week, Robert Sietsema heads to Jersey City to try out the Indo-Iranian fare at Fido's Cafe. Meanwhile, in the East Village, Ryan Sutton is thankful for the meaty fare at modern Korean restaurant Oiji, which he calls one of the most exhilarating openings of 2015. Here's where other critics dined recently:

Pete Wells visits the luxe French restaurant Chevalier and writes that, despite the fact that the restaurant is still looking for its identity, there are good meals to be had: "Anybody whose taste buds are in working order could work up a good appetite for those cavatelli — chewy but tender, yolk-enriched, and shiny in a sharp, springlike ramp pesto with smoked pecorino. The next course brought what has to be the greatest piece of roasted veal loin I've ever met, supremely flavorful and juicy." Two stars.

Zachary Feldman dives into a deep bowl of noodle soup that's a specialty of the southern Chinese city of Guilin at Flushing's Gui Lin Mi Fen. "Milky-white and thick with collagen, Zhou's stock counters its rich texture with a light flavor. It makes for a great hangover-cure breakfast — Gui Lin Mi Fen opens at 11 a.m. — or a belly-settling bookend to a day of marathon eating of the kind for which the neighborhood has become popular."

grand army

Grand Army. [Nick Solares]

Michael Kaminer thoroughly enjoys the food at Boerum Hill cocktail spot Grand Army, but somehow seems to not try a single cocktail: "Smoked octopus ($17) is the most impressive cephalopod I've ever tasted. Cut into meaty discs, the octopus is stacked on feather-light celeriac puree and finished with with celery oil. You sense sharp, strong flavors from every element on the plate, and they sync up beautifully." Four out of five stars.

Steve Cuozzo thinks French Riviera import Mamo should have just stayed across the Atlantic. After a successful antipasti course the meal consisted of "Dull dish after dull dish [that] tasted more whitewashed than the room — underseasoned and not always properly cooked. Among the perpetrators: moistureless Milanese-style veal chop ($31)." One star.

Gael Greene is disappointed by her new neighborhood spot The Ribbon, where few things seem to hit a high note, including Blue Ribbon's famed fried chicken: "The bird itself is moist — ven the breast meat — but the crust is weirdly salty, slightly medicinal, and sandy in texture. That could be togarashi, the Japanese chile powder."


Rose's [Nick Solares]

The Elsewhere: Christina Izzo calls the burger at Rose's one of the best new burgers in the city, but adds: "One great burger does not a great restaurant make." Three out of five stars. And, Joe Distefano really digs the summer tomato pie at pizza legend Pepe's in New Haven.

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