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Leventhal on The Four Seasons: 'This Is the Logical Next Chapter for Major Food Group'

Eater's co-founder chimes in with his endorsement of the biggest restaurant takeover of the new millennium.

Daniel Krieger

The spirited debate about the Major Food Group takeover of The Four Seasons space continues today with a post on Medium by Eater co-founder Ben Leventhal. Looking at the history of the restaurant and the past accomplishments of the Torrisi crew, he writes that this is the "logical next chapter for Major Food Group." He also argues that, although the dining room is "without question the most beautiful restaurant in New York City and therefore in the world," The Four Seasons has been resting on its laurels for some time:

Like it or not, it’s suddenly clear that Four Seasons sat out the last twenty years in the evolution of restaurants. Because it could. In fact, the space could go untouched for another 100 years and it would still be the two most perfect dining rooms in the city (I hope the new team grasps this, that less touch is more). But, these days the bar is so much higher. Guys like Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Danny Meyer, and, yes, Ralph Lauren have lapped the Four Seasons. The restaurants that define New York today have it all. In the context of places like Jean Georges, Gramercy Tavern, and the Polo Bar*, the shortcomings of the Four Seasons are hard to ignore.

BL suggests that the team has to pick a new name that has "timeless presence," and he also notes that one of the core members of Major Food, Jeff Zalaznick, has got "uptown cred for days."

Yesterday, Eater co-founder Lockhart Steele also voiced his support for the new project, while journalist Felix Salmon torched the notion of the Torrisi takeover. Eater editor-in-chief Amanda Kludt also shared memories of several unfortunate interactions with current co-owner Julian Niccolini.

If you have an opinions of your own, please share them in the comments.