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Pete Wells Serves Up Two Stars for Bowery Newcomer Rebelle

Wells digs the roasted chicken, but isn't sold on the space.

Daniel Krieger

Pete Wells has mixed feelings about Rebelle, the new restaurant from wine master Patrick Cappiello, and Branden McRill of Pearl & Ash, and chef Daniel Eddy, an alum of Paris's critical darling Spring. He gives high marks to the monkfish and roast chicken:

A long strip of bird under a crackerlike roof of skin. Absolutely everything about this plate seems to have gone right, down to the golden, papery slices of potato fused in butter-fried unity.

But, he's frustrated by the upselling of plates and isn't exactly enamored with the giant industrial space: "At times Rebelle reminds you less of a brasserie on Boulevard du Montparnasse than of a strip club on Queens Boulevard, especially when you start hearing classic pole-dancing hits of the 1980s." The smart and gently priced wine list helps make up for these faults. Wells gives it two stars.

Rebelle

300 East Travis Street, , TX 78205 (210) 352-3171 Visit Website

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