A Hidden Gem in Astoria, Great Pizza in Rockaway Beach, and More in This Week's Reviews

Yesterday Robert Sietsema reviewed Puebla de Los Angeles, a Mexican deli in South Slope. Now here's a roundup of what the rest of the city's critics are talking about:

Tejal Rao reviews the health-conscious and stylish Cafe Clover: "The grilled chicken breast is hammered flat, aggressively marinated and seared, then hidden under a giant pile of salad greens. This is getting awfully close to spa food, but at least it's from a spa that cares about how things taste and doesn't want the chicken-salad set to suffer. The dish is well-seasoned, the leaves crisp and clean, well-dressed." One star. [Bloomberg]

Zachary Feldman visits Whit's End, a Rockaway Beach pizzeria presided over by a "Pizza Nazi": "The oven's embers form superlative Neapolitan-style pies made from Italian flour and strewn with enlightened toppings — clams and house-made sausage zinged with peperoncini, or cured meats with arugula and lemon...My personal favorite marries brittle, crisp artichoke hearts, charred lemon ricotta, and rosemary, a combination that comes out savory, herbal, and bright." [VV]

Michael Kaminer finds a hidden gem in Mar's, an Astoria gastropub: "Snowy cod, battered in rice flour, makes an irresistible centerpiece in exemplary fish and chips ($19). Mar's balances a tower of crispy, greaseless filets atop a mini-mountain of postcard-perfect shoestring fries. Delicate but decadent, this is a supremely light rendition of a classic that's usually drowned in oil or sunk by substandard fish." Four stars. [NYDN]

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan dines on Tibetan food at the new-ish Punda Tibetan. Hannah Goldfield says Streetbird Rotisserie tends to fall short. Gael Greene pays an early visit to the Clocktower, where she finds a few big hits. Sarah Zorn is charmed by Eugene & Co in Bed-Stuy.

THE BLOGS: The Infatuation likes the chicken at Streetbird Rotisserie, Restaurant Girl is disappointed by Mamo, Chekmark Eats loves Cafe Clover, NYC Foodie dines at Contrada, Chopsticks + Marrow finds great Thai snacks at Sugar Club's monthly festival, Gothamist declares the burger at Rose's one of the best in the city.