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A Hidden Gem in Astoria, Great Pizza in Rockaway Beach, and More in This Week's Reviews

A roundup of what the critics are talking about this week, from Cafe Clover's hip healthy food, to Whit's End's Neapolitan pies.

Courtesy of Cafe Clover

Yesterday Robert Sietsema reviewed Puebla de Los Angeles, a Mexican deli in South Slope. Now here's a roundup of what the rest of the city's critics are talking about:

Tejal Rao reviews the health-conscious and stylish Cafe Clover: "The grilled chicken breast is hammered flat, aggressively marinated and seared, then hidden under a giant pile of salad greens. This is getting awfully close to spa food, but at least it's from a spa that cares about how things taste and doesn't want the chicken-salad set to suffer. The dish is well-seasoned, the leaves crisp and clean, well-dressed." One star. [Bloomberg]

Zachary Feldman visits Whit's End, a Rockaway Beach pizzeria presided over by a "Pizza Nazi": "The oven's embers form superlative Neapolitan-style pies made from Italian flour and strewn with enlightened toppings — clams and house-made sausage zinged with peperoncini, or cured meats with arugula and lemon...My personal favorite marries brittle, crisp artichoke hearts, charred lemon ricotta, and rosemary, a combination that comes out savory, herbal, and bright." [VV]

Michael Kaminer finds a hidden gem in Mar's, an Astoria gastropub: "Snowy cod, battered in rice flour, makes an irresistible centerpiece in exemplary fish and chips ($19). Mar's balances a tower of crispy, greaseless filets atop a mini-mountain of postcard-perfect shoestring fries. Delicate but decadent, this is a supremely light rendition of a classic that's usually drowned in oil or sunk by substandard fish." Four stars. [NYDN]

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan dines on Tibetan food at the new-ish Punda Tibetan. Hannah Goldfield says Streetbird Rotisserie tends to fall short. Gael Greene pays an early visit to the Clocktower, where she finds a few big hits. Sarah Zorn is charmed by Eugene & Co in Bed-Stuy.

THE BLOGS: The Infatuation likes the chicken at Streetbird Rotisserie, Restaurant Girl is disappointed by Mamo, Chekmark Eats loves Cafe Clover, NYC Foodie dines at Contrada, Chopsticks + Marrow finds great Thai snacks at Sugar Club's monthly festival, Gothamist declares the burger at Rose's one of the best in the city.

Cafe Clover

10 Downing St, New York, NY 10014 (212) 675-4350 Visit Website

Punda Restaurant

39-35 47th Ave, Sunnyside, NY 11104 (718) 806-1845

Streetbird Rotisserie

2149 Frederick Douglass Boulevard, Manhattan, NY 10027 (212) 206-2557 Visit Website

The Clocktower

5 Madison Avenue, New York, NY

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