South Korean-born chefs Brian Kim and Tae Kyung Ku, vets of Bouley and Gramercy Tavern respectively, are reinterpreting and modernizing the food of their childhoods at their new intimate spot Oiji. The uncluttered space has seating for just shy of 40, including around a large shared table. There's a huge chandelier, and some tiny flowers on the tables, but otherwise this is a spare, simple place.
Here, the flavors of bibimbop appear in something called chil-jeol-pan seven flavors, a dish with a stack of rice flour crepes and a plate of toppings that include eggs, beef, shitake mushrooms, carrots, and cucumbers. It's a sort of DIY dinner, where diners can make rolls from the crepes. There's also a ssam platter for two, and a Korean-influenced drink list that includes plum wine, rare soju, and rice wine. There's just one dessert here, a gourmet version of the cult Korean snack honey butter chips, which is quickly becoming one of the hottest dishes of the summer.
